We delay our departure to get a decent cup of coffee from the Cafe de Hunza, where we had lunch yesterday; it opens at 930. So far it's the only place we've found that serves decent coffee. At 930 we're dressed ready for our coffee before leaving on the bikes. But at 945 it's still not open and other coffee options investigated would take too long: so we leave. We'll have to scratch that itch later.
We rejoin the KKH following the Hunza river upstream. A landslide a few years ago blocked the river and a lake formed behind it: Attabad Lake. In the process it wiped out the KKH too, and so a new route was tunneled into the rocks, and which we now have to go through.
Normally tunnels in developing countries can be pretty scary as there are no lights, the surface can be unpredictable, and not well marked; plus the locals' often don't seem to care about rear lights. But this tunnel was built by the Chinese and is in good condition. There are lights, but those were not switched on, and the markings are generally good. Our bike lights also work! So it was not as traumatic as some of our subterranean traverses, even though the three tunnels were many km long.
We scratch the coffee itch at a cafe above the entertainment complex that has developed to serve users of Attabad lake, which is now a major tourist attraction. There we meet a cycling couple from Zurich that have been on the road for 440 days! They've done around 20,000km.
Next stop is the Husseini suspension bridge across the Hunza River for which there is a long queue to cross. A few of us opt for the shortcut, a zip wire. So strapped in we zip across and walk back. The slats have large gaps between each piece and lifejackets are mandatory just in case you fall in! I met a man from Lahore mid-way across and he proceeds to video us as he interviews me about my experience in Pakistan. I give a glowing report with the exception of litter, a personal hate. Gerard takes exception that I focus on litter rather than all the other ailments of the country. Maybe he's right, but my litter rant is a non political statement.
Lunch is a Yak burger, which was tasty, but I think lacked a bit of salt. The cafe was a hip place playing a range of relatively modern club hits, some of which we could sing along to.
Next onto the Passo Cones, a series of almost conical rock formations towering over the KKH. We traverse the curves leading to the best views a few times to get some good video shots of the group. The cones are an impressive sight.
Our hotel for the night, in fact the next three nights, is not far and we're there in no time. As a result the Passu Cones dominate the vista of our resting place. Dinner is served outside, with the mountains as our backdrop: very impressive.
In the lobby we meet a family who are very interested in our group. The two young boys are very eager to share their knowledge, and space is a top interest! Immediately my buddies point to me, at which point I'm presented with facts and figures about the solar system. The largest planet is Jupiter, the smallest planet is Mercury, biggest moon is Ganymede... At which point I say I think it is actually Titan. The young lad disagrees and insists it's Ganymede. There are also girls in the family and one wants to be a doctor - excellent. We are very impressed by their inquisitiveness and enthusiasm and praise the parents.
After they leave, I check which is the biggest moon in the solar system.... It's Ganymede! ☺️
Christopher an I go for a run. The planned route is a 3.5km circuit, but somehow we end up on a narrow trail up the side of the valley 🤷🏽. But it's worth it as the views is the Cones are magnificent.
To bed early as we're up early tomorrow to ride the final stretch of the KKH to the Khunjerub Pass and the Chinese border, one of the many highlights of this trip. Charlie opts to sleep outside on the porch of our chalet as the room is a bit warm and there's no AC or even a fan.
1 comment:
Looks like stunning scenery!
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