I wake early, can't get back to sleep, so go for a run hoping that it will be cooler in the morning. It may be, but it's still hot, and unfortunately very humid. I cross the suspension bridge as last time, but the river is about 1m higher; it's loud and closer to the deck of the bridge. I dangle my camera to get a good shot.
We are awaiting news of our flight out of Gilgit, the latest is that there is a three hour delay, probably due to stormy weather in Islamabad, as it's clear here. If the flight is cancelled we have to drive, which none of us are looking forward to, least of all because I would plan a Karakorum Karaoke in the minibus. My riding buddies are considering sending me in a taxi of my own! 🙉
We turn up at the airport to ensure we can react quickly to any airline changes. Sat under fans for a couple of hours and the we get the news the flight is cancelled. Hmmm...
Transport is arranged but it takes an age to arrive. In the mean time we discuss options and agree to stop in Naran overnight before pushing off early in the morning. We would have gone non-stop but for the fact that a key mountain pass the Babusar Top closes at 1830. By the time the cars arrive, drivers briefed, luggage loaded, it's now nearly 17h.
We set off, but very slowly... It seems we have less than a ¼ of a tank; not enough to get us there. The driver is constantly on the phone, then we swap drivers, more discussions, money exchanged.
Again moving slowly and then it becomes clear, there's a strike and garages are limiting fuel distribution. There's a huge queue at the only garage that seems to have fuel and armed police are guarding it. We circle around looking for other garages, but nothing. Eventually we end up back at the only game in town. A local pokes his head into the car and suggests we speak to the senior officer. Our two pastie-faced 'gora sahibs', Gerard and Hugo jump out and start taking about cricket - there's that Kane Williamson mentioned again! The conversation is just pleasantries and the officer gives the ok for us to refuel, and we get a full tank. No pictures because the officer is worried we'll start a riot!
Underway and now a new torture, DJ Gerard has connected his phone to the car with help from the driver while he's overtaking on blind bends and scratching his ankle (the driver) and we're listening to his (Gerard's) collection... 🙉 Oh well, that's the price of fuel
We are aiming to reach Naran tonight for a quick rest before pushing on.
We're following the Hunza river which seems to be getting wilder. It's cut a gorge in some sections, accentuating the rage. Above the road in top of the friable cliff faces, huge boulders are waiting to topple, rather like the 'pushing pennies' arcade machine - except when they topple you lose not win.
We're making progress, but up ahead, we see a long stream of headlights. The road is broken and cars and lorries are crawling slowly. On a bike this is just part of the ride, but in a car it's a real obstacle: we crawl too. It's a two way crawl but chancers try to make three lanes and overtake in our direction completely blocking our way until they can merge back into their flow; our driver is not best pleased and opens his window to deliver a few choice words.
We stop for the driver to pray and meet up with Charlie and gang who we thought had raced ahead of us. Apparently the third car, Steve and co, has had two driver swaps and a car swap! No idea where they are currently.
I wonder why we're going so slowly, the driver seems like he's not pushing the engine. Then I see the angle of a wall outside and realise we're on a very steep hill. The AC is turned off so as not to sap the engine power. Then we're down to first gear with a crunch from the broken synchromesh in the gearbox. We're over 3000m now. The road has plenty of hairpin bends and we yo-yo between second and crunch into first, all the while 4x4s whizz past; I think this must be the smallest Corolla engine in the range, but somehow it pulls out foreign bulk and luggage.
Progress is not helped by the myriad of fallen rocks on the road and cars and lorries that have stopped by the roadside, some seem to be having a picnic by their headlights.
The driver is now our DJ and we have a range of Indian and other songs: quite enjoyable to listen to and it adds to the atmosphere of the journey. At some point the driver lights up a cigarette, but both Gerard and Hugo ask him not to smoke.
We stop again and meet Charlie's car. A toilet break and chance to stock up on nibbles. And of course the postponed smoke by the driver. Looking up, the sky is crystal clear and the temperature has dropped.
We're at 3500m and still climbing. I think I can see snow in the slopes just outside. We have to slow momentarily while somebody is pushing a van and then our engine gets bogged down. As the van starts and shoots off, we struggle to get moving even in first gear; there's a smell of burning clutch as we finally gain some momentum.
3850m and that's definitely snow by the roadside, in fact tall walls of the stuff.
4150m and we're at the top of Babusar Pass. It's nearly midnight and almost a party atmosphere with fires burning and groups having a laugh. There's a variety of rag-tag stalls serving refreshments and what looks like several espresso machines of questionable vintage. At the very top there also a Ferris wheel!
We have chai and fries, both manna from above. It's cold and getting misty, we must be in the clouds for sure; we don extra layers to keep warm by the makeshift brazier embers in an old metal ghee container.
Just before we set off again, I complete my 555 day streak on Duolingo. Tres magnifique!
There are huge potholes in the road and we slow to a crawl as the driver gingerly negotiates them. We're dropping altitude quite fast now. There's a line of car lights stretching off into the distance; this would have been an excellent road to see in daylight and an even better one to ride.
The driver stops beside another car, winds down the window, and chats to a fellow driver. This is his regular route so he must know many others doing the same.
Stopped at a police checkpoint. 'Yay foreigners heh." Onward we go, passing the popular Moon restaurant with an abundance of cars outside. The large restaurant is completely open on one side, it must be cold inside.
We splash through several streams of water flowing across the road.
Arrived in Naran at 0130 and 2400m, and the place is alive. Market stalls open and it's teeming with people, shopping, out strolling with their kids, and girls taking selfies; the day is upside down. We stop at the side of the road and regroup to workout where we are staying for the next few hours.
Strangely we do a loop of Naran yet know exactly where we are going. But there's no room at the inn. Tabish goes off looking; it seems all very unplanned. We sit in the car wasting time. It becomes more frustrating when we finally hear from Steve that they are just 180 km from Islamabad. Wow, they've made good progress. I guess because they set off before us and didn't have to waste time searching for fuel.
0230: Tabish manages to find us some rooms and we'll get some kip, but more importantly so will our driver! We restart our adventure at 0930 tomorrow.... I mean later today.
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