Pakistanistan Day 12, back to Gilgit

The world has ended! Or it seems that way as there's no internet connection to be found since last night, whether that be hotel WiFi or the local SCOM 4G (4 bars). We're isolated! 😱

But breakfast is still working, thankfully and so is Ray, near fully recovered. He's at the table with his traveling can of half decent instant Kenco coffee (other instant coffees are available) and his bag of granola - little luxuries from way back west.

It's the last day of riding and it's a relatively straightforward ride back to Gilgit with a slight detour for lunch.

Christopher zooms out ahead of us and lays in the middle of the rush as we ride towards him spread across the tarmac. Epic shot.

At the Passu Cones view point we stop for another group photo and we ask a local to take a picture of us. He does so and then the cheeky bugger takes a selfie of himself and the group! Ultimate photobomb!

[Photos to be added]

Now we are on a hunt for coffee. Our intended stop, the Cafe de Hunza, is not yet open despite having opening hours from 930 - it's now 1030. They say it will be another 20 minutes, which probably means an hour, so we explore other options. We stop twice more, the second actually going inside a hotel, until they say the coffee shop doesn't open until 4pm! We give up and head for our lunch stop.

It's an hour away on the KKH and the air temperature has risen making it feel like sitting in front of a full body hair dryer. We have a brief respite from the heat as we pass through the long tunnels that bypass Attabad lake, the back out into the furnace. 

We've ridden this road before, but in reverse, the scenery seems even more spectacular. A large deep valley, steep sides, with areas of flat land where the raging river abates slightly. On some of these flatter areas there are patches of greenery that have been established, they seem to be oasis in the middle of deserts.

The fragility of the landscape is all too obvious as it's only a few days since we ride this and there have already been several landslides spilling rocks and dust across the road. The debris has been swept to the sides but it still narrows the road in places.

We spot a significant sign: one issue we have with Pakistan is the amount of litter blighting the most beautiful scenery. It's a national shame. We accept the challenge!

High up above the KKH the mountains are covered in tracks zigzagging up the steep slopes. In some cases the track seems to end nowhere which is puzzling, but we're told that in a few places mining is done on the mountains. 

We pull off the KKH and head up a broken tarmac road with dusty Dakar rally sections thrown in to challenge us. We're hot, tired and in need of refreshment and we just want a break and some food. Ray especially, still recovering, feels the heat most and we discuss whether he should ride in the support jeep for the final 80k into Gilgit.

But, oh boy, was the hot climb worth it! The waiter brought out a still bubbling pot of mutton served with rice, daal and chapatis. Theeee, most, delicious and succulent lamb I've had, in a mild sauce. Perfect with the rice, and I had three portions! 🐷

I waddle off to the bikes and then it's a bumpy ride with a full belly back down the track. Ray sensibly rides in the jeep, while our mechanic, Imran, enjoys his ride on Ray's bike, sans helmet.

Then it's essentially one long blast along the KKH to Gilgit. It's a fast trunk road, and we are mostly full on throttle to our top speed of about 80-90kph, which is just not fast enough to stay ahead of the 'I'm Mr Important' VIP jeeps and just about fast enough to overtake fully laden buses and trucks. We are usually faster in the corners or over rough patches, but get hammered on the straights, except if it's significantly downhill.

We stop for a break halfway and a minibus pulls up opposite. Out pours about 16 bodies (from the same family) and a small group gradually gathers around us asking the usual questions and wanting pictures with us. They take it in turns to come forward for their individual picture with the foreigners, each posing and then shaking our hands in turn. It feels like we are real celebrities! 

Then back on the throttle and now we're fighting a headwind. Gerard, Hugo and I take turns overtaking each other either by being in the wrong gear or ducking down to reduce air resistance. At one point I'm flat out with the engine misfiring as usual at 7krpm and both Hugo and Gerard sail past me. Then later I overtake them once my momentum has built up again. 

And then we're in Gilgit, but just as we enter the city, my gear lever falls off. Somehow it doesn't hit the road, but I can't change gear. I slide it back onto the splines and nurse the bike back to base, which is the Karakorum Bikers storage and lodging area. 

We park up, hugs all round as is our way (yes even Gerard got one). And then, mango ice-cream shakes! Followed by a banana ice-cream shake, followed by another mango shake (no ice-cream as by now it's run out!)... Can you overdose on milkshakes?  Charlie and Christopher say a few words of thanks and we give our monetary collection to our three local guides, Tabish, Special K, and Imran.

To the hotel in taxis, which seem to take the tour of Gilgit route, but eventually arrive. The river outside our hotel is noticeable more angry than it was a few days ago. The increased heat has produced more meltwater. It's very loud, even with the balcony door closed.

One last task before we leave Gilgit, Hugo needs to have his tank bag repaired, so 'Special K' our jeep driver takes us to a repair guy. It's little more than a ramshackle awning on the side of a regular shop, with basic shoe polishes and scraps of materials to use. He sits on the floor and proceeds to repair Hugo's bag. It takes about 30 minutes and Hugo is thrilled with the result. When we ask the price we are shocked: 100rupees. That's about 30p! Hugo gives him 500 and he beams his thanks.

Dinner and then we say goodbye to Imran and Special K, Tabish Will be joining us on our flight to Islamabad.... hopefully! Flights are often cancelled due to the weather and if ours is, we are getting to Islamabad by taxi; and it's a 20 hour journey! 😱 Fingers crossed for good weather, although thunder storms are expected for Islamabad even if the forecast is good here.🤞🏽🤲🏽