Indonesia Volcano Run Day 1 - the never-ending day

We're lost! Tom and I are separated from the group and off course - Jakarta is manic! 

We left at 05:30 to 'avoid the traffic' but it's still crazy at that time. Corner man goes out the window. In the scrum, it's every man, and woman, for themselves. Our leader, Miller, has a totally invisible black helmet and in no time I've lost the person I thought I was following, Alan Alan? At one point,  following a car and the general traffic, at a traffic barrier, I discover I'm actually on the wrong side of the road - I quickly nip back at the first opportunity. 

I'm sure I saw one of our group turn right (turns out it was Rob), but we're going straight on, Tom is following me now. After about ten minutes with none of the group in sight, I decide to stop and get my phone out to check the map. We've all been given gpx files of the route and my phone shows we're off track. 

I put my phone in the holder on the bike (should've done this at the beginning) and we backtrack to get back on course. Still no sign of anyone, but I know we're going the right way. 

Traffic lights here have incredibly long hold times and eventually I choose to switch off my engine while waiting, it must be close to two minutes of red. Huge throngs of scooters gather ahead of the waiting cars and when the lights turn green the solid mass of two wheelers dissolves as they shoot forwards. (The picture below was later, on a level crossing, but gives the right idea)

There's a big junction ahead and it looks like we turn right onto a main road. Being cautious I decide to stop to check where people are. Charlie has called and Christopher has messaged me. We swap locations and I'm surprised we're way ahead. We stay out and wait for the others to catch up. 

Finally reunited after a 30 minute wait, we restart. At the next stop, Charlie buys a snack packet of chicky balls, conveniently coloured yellow, which he promptly empties into the bin. We tape the bag to the back of Miller's helmet to make it stand out. It works after a slight repositioning and now he's much more visible from afar. 

Eventually we clear the worst of the traffic and are on winding single carriageway roads on an generally upward trend through the trees.

The roads are mostly concrete with fine channels running crossways, presumably to clear the water when it rains.

The hills are terraced in places and at one point a picture perfect view emerges. I stop and some others follow suit. 

Lunch stop. Avocado shake went down well. Before we leave, the owners want a photo with us. Back on the bikes and we are ushered onto the road by the restaurant staff. Here it's the done thing, to help people feed into the busy traffic. It doesn't always work, as some drive around the waving traffic attendant. At night they use an illuminated wand.

 

We detour to see a waterfall, but it's dry. 

On the way up to the waterfall, Charlie spots what he thinks is the nicest tea plantation he's seen. Unfortunately, I miss it so no pictures... 🤦🏽

We turn back the way we came and get back onto our gpx track. It's fast tarmac now, broken in places but mostly smooth and well maintained. Further on we do see a proper waterfall. 

A local rides by on a strange looking contraption, an adapted moped used to transport goods piled high.

We speed along, slowing for towns and villages, but no matter how fast we go, there's always a local on a scooter trying to overtake us, often three aboard!

Waving has begun and it funny to hear the groups of young girls giggling as they wave back.

The sky looks ominous. We stop at a shop (no more then a hut selling basic snacks and drinks) and while there it starts raining. We shelter under shop front and deliberate on whether to put our waterproofs on. With all the rain and wet boots, the tile steps become super slippery. One of us, who shall remain nameless, slips suddenly and ends up crashing down, destroying some of the shop's pot plants in the process. He's fine but sits down while we make sure he's ok. No damage (this time..... can you guess yet?). I leave 50,000 rp as a gesture for the damage, which they seem to appreciate.

We don waterproofs, usually the trigger for the rain to stop, and indeed, stop, it does. Back on the winding road and we can see lightning in the distance. But the rain holds off, for now. Eventually we catch it and road is wet, so we need to take more care. It's getting dark too and by the time we reach the main road the sun has gone to bed. So not only do we have to contend with rain, but also dazzling headlights. But despite that we seem to make good progress. I'm following Rob, who's following Cary; she's riding fast and pulls us along. Later tells us her lights were not working well, so quite the impressive ride.

We try to avoid riding in the dark, but sometimes it happens. Having set off at 5:30 this morning, we've now been on the road for about 14 hours! That's our longest ever day of riding and yet we've only covered about 265km!

We rock up to the hotel and some of us eat dinner before even changing. The food is good, but Steve subdues his annoyance that there's no Coke Zero, his favoured beverage. 

Early to bed because we'll be on the road by 7:30 tomorrow...

Indonesia Volcano Run Day 0

Breakast buffet in the hotel and then we "Grab" a taxi to what we think is the harbour area. The old port is a recommended spot to see.

Christopher has dropped his phone in the back of his taxi, so he and Rob wait for the taxi to return, and they'll catch up with us later. 

We're not quite at the port, so end up winding our way northward through narrow alleys that get narrower as we go. 

It's a populated area with tiny shops and workshops tucked away to the side, and bare living room floors open to the street - people lying down, under their fans, only an arms length away from us strolling by. It's a whole community condensed into a small space. 

Like most of the developing countries we've visited there's plenty of rubbish strewn around. Plastic dominates; it's mankind's curse that scars environments globally, but much more so in places like these. 

That's a river under that crap!

The noon call to prayer guides our way past a local mosque and there's now space for cars and bikes. It's 1130 so seems early, but the Indonesian timezone seems weirdly out of sync with Jakarta's location.

We seem to be in Jakarta's rubbish central and that unmistakable putrid rotting smell permiates the air. We reach the edge of Waduk Plait a local lake with a very narrow channel opening to the sea. It's essentially an open dump and plastic lines the shores. 

What has mankind done to this planet, and where did society go so wrong in regard to treating the environment?... In developing countries, they're so busy trying to survive until the next day, that the environment becomes secondary. But I fear in the west, with unchecked fly tipping, we are heading that same way.

Steve spots a monitor lizard gliding into the water, and there's another creeping through the detritus that I eventually see too.

This is not the Old Port and we decide this area doesn't warrant further exploration, so we pick up three tuk tuks and head for the actual Old Port. 

But even that turns out to be an anticlimax; yes, the old ships are there, lined up, but that's it, there's nothing else in the area. Five minutes of photos and we scoot. 

We now head for the Jetski Cafe, but the tuk tuk drivers don't have a clue how to get there, but still confidently drive in the opposite direction! So we bail, and Grab two cars which know the way.

A pleasant lunch there, on the edge of the harbour, sitting inside in front of a massive A/C machine. I enjoy fresh coconut from a fresh Jetski Cafe branded coconut. I scrape out the succulent lining with a spoon, but need a plastic straw to drink the liquid. I feel uneasy about using the plastic and wonder if it will end up in the sea.

Grab back to the hotel. We regroup there and then head out to collect the bikes, which we ride about 500m back to the hotel in minimal gear, but maximal traffic, so top out at about 15 kmph. Mine is a Kawasaki Versys 250cc. Feels comfortable and should be fine for the mild trails and tarmac we'll be mostly riding.

Out to dinner in two cars at a swanky resto in the Financial District. It's far nicer here and more like a modern city should be. One wonders: if the people that live and work here spent some time in the rubbish strewn areas, out of their air conditioned cars, whether the "Kampung" areas would be so unpleasant.

I end the evening with Charlie, Tom and Shane. Riders who I'm meeting for the first time, but I'm sure will get to know well - in addition to their stories! What goes on tour, stays on tour, right. 

Half a Day around Goa

I'm attending a meeting in Goa, and before it starts decided to hire a scooter for the afternoon. 

After a brief pootle around Donna Paula where I'm staying, I decided to head south to the home turf of the legend that is Alex Pirie, the owner of Nomadic Knights, the company with which I started my overseas biking adventures many moons ago in India. 

Unfortunately Alex is away on a tour up in the Himalayas, but I visit his manor, Colva, as I meandre my way south and imprint BD on the neighbourhood. 

Lovely beaches - I can see the attraction of life in Goa!

I'm used to manic driving from my many trips in developing countries, but apparently Goa has the highest accident rate. Doesn't seem anything out of the ordinary from what I can see, your still need to use the horn judiciously. 

I keep heading south to Benaulim where an ex-work colleague from my GEC Hirst Research Centre days now lives with her husband. While they finish watching the Wales Japan rugby I visit their local beach. Very nice. 

But the weather is closing in, looks like a storm is on the way. 

The half fuel tank I had at the start now indicates into the red, so I fill up. I ask for 500Rs worth, but only 350Rs goes in. That's only a few litres. The attendant tries to short change me, but a lady on a scooter behind intervenes and I'm issued the right amount - thank you!

I head further south and come across a sandy track that emerges into a much quieter area with the best beach I've seen and very few people around. 

But in the distance I can see the waves are white topped and a few rollers land on the beach. There's a power boat that jumps the waves heading out!

The match over, I meet up with Bee and husband Dave for coffee.

They moved here years ago and are well settled, even starting up a local rugby club for the kids. They've handed that down to others now, but still follow the local tournaments as guest VIPs.

Time to get back, as I have to return the scooter by 8pm, so I set off on the small roads leading to the NH66 trunk road. But before I get there the heavens open and it's now really pouring. On top of that it's now dark and rush hour! With car headlights on full beam and the rain inside and outside of my visor it's hard work. I stop under a bridge to shelter for a bit.

Restarting, the rain has eased a little but it's still challenging. It's probably also good practice for the rainy season in Indonesia whose adventure follows in a week's time - stay tuned.

I join the NH66 but traffic becomes clogged in places - Google says a 14 minute delay, but I make good progress in gaps, and on the dirt at the roadside, leaving the traffic behind me. 

Traffic and weather cleared, and this little locally produced 125cc Yamaha is not a bad little mount. I've not ridden scooters much, but this one is agile and can do an indicated 90kmph.

I eventually get back to Dona Paula and return the bike, somehow, with 30mins to spare. 110km today and the petrol gauge still indicates almost full despite the crazy ride back. These really bikes barely use fuel.

Upnarth - Monday, a 9-5 tribute to Dolly

Hugo leaves us before we leave Snads. Five hours later he reaches home.

Steve, Ray and I depart (9am). We are in a tight schedule as Ray needs to catch the ferry to be back in time for a family reunion.

We stop to admire the statue of Alice Nutter, the last witch to be hanged in Britain. 

Apparently one of her last descendants lived in Barnoldswick. She used to wash her windows at night while stark naked. Her dog roamed the streets shitting everywhere. When the local council said the dog needed to be on a leash, she obediently attached one. Without a human in the loop the dog no doubt continued to shit indiscriminately! 🤣

No more stops except to empty our tanks. Steve sets a blistering pace on the damp roads, but it's hard not to ignore the magnificent Yorkshire Dales. The roads are awesome and there's not much traffic despite being a bank holiday long weekend.

We arrive at Devils Bridge by 11am, where we say goodbye to Ray. It's a popular bikers stop and there are many other bikes parked up. We have a coffee while there.

I resist the urge to jump.

Then we wend our way though the Dales, but this time stopping more often to take pictures.

We stop for a spot of lunch at the Wensleydale Creamery, where I order a 'South Canadiano coffee' to go with my cheese roll, but my humour is lost on the young server, no fault of theirs. 

Steve has a cheese scone

After that we go cheese tasting, sampling the various cheeses for sale. I manage to leave with an arm full of goodies.

Then more great views.

We reach a series of gates, where we have to stop, open, ride through, and close the gate, each time. Just after the last one I set the bike on its stand so I can close the gate, but I left it in neutral. It doesn't rolls forward, off the stand, and topples over... 🤦🏽 Rookie mistake. 

The gear lever is broken. 

Luckily nothing else is damaged. I ride the next 10km or so, trying change gear, but the sharp edge is damaging my boot and it's especially difficult to change up a gear. We stop and I do a makeshift repair with a scrap of duct tape and a short piece of twig. Surprisingly it makes enough of a difference to allow me to change gear more easily. 👏🏽

Steve asks if we should cut the day short, but I'm good to go. My F800 engine is flexible enough to just about pull away in 3rd gear, which can also reach motorway speeds. But on the longer straights I snick it into 4th. We carry on for about an hour continuing to make good progress.

As soon as we get back (5pm) I set to work fashioning a replacement gear lever, rummaging around in Steve's garage for bits. 

Initially I thought of attaching a small 90 degree angle bracket, but in the end decide that it's simpler just to drill a single hole a fix a bolt in place, then wrap it in duct tape. It's a method I've used before and it works well. Steve has the tools and bolts, so job done. I'm sure that will last for months.

262km today. Almost spoilt by gravity. But we resisted.