Colombian Conquest Day 9 - La Dorada to Pensilvania

Animals: I missed pigs off my list of animals to be seen, and indeed, before we even leave, Steve is sweating like one... Profusely; he's literally dripping and that's in the shade. 

We're in the Magdelana valley, at the lowest point of our tour around 200m above sea level. Therefore, we're experiencing the hottest temperatures so far and it feels worse because we're leaving at midday. As we leave the city, we sense that oh so pungent aroma of distilled and matured sewage. To be honest it's the first time I've smelled it while in Colombia and it's to be expected really, remember we're in the tropics and in a not quite fully developed country. We've had that same assault to our senses all over the world, and pretty much the same smell everywhere. 

We're climbing the Magdelana valley heading to the town of Victoria for lunch. In the right we can see a few buttes. These look similar to those found in Monument Valley in the US, but unlike there the wet tropical climate means that there's plenty of growth on and around the formation, so it's green instead of brown. This picture taken as we climb towards Victoria. The buttes, just visible in the distance, looked bigger from the valley floor.

Before the lunch stop Graham has a puncture, but we go ahead and leave him and Edy to catch up once it's fixed.

At the lunch stop we meet a new friend Luis. Can't quite work out whether he had learning difficulties or he's high. He's relatively well groomed and well dressed,  has nice teeth, and makes a good effort at speaking English. He's also got a huge tracheotomy scar in his neck. I think he's adopted us, or Steve at least.

The centre of the square is dominated by a very large tree with a thick trunk.

Graham is my batman today and brings me an espresso while we're sitting in the shade chatting to Luis. Ray appreciates the proper coffee taste, the first on this trip. We're climbing into the coffee growing region of Colombia, so we'll expect good things from the coffee. 

We sit almost opposite the police station, and once again I admire the police colour scheme. They ride the same Honda XRE 300 bikes as us, but usually two-up. 

We climb higher on asphalt, into the clouds, and at times along the ridge line seeing valleys below on either side. There's an equal proportion of trucks to cars and the trucks spew out thick black smoke as their diesel engines struggle to push them up the steep incline. As we climb, less restricted by gravity, it gets cooler - that's a relief. 

We pass homes that from the road look normal, but I know that a few seconds ago, I saw that this same house is clinging precariously to the steep slopes.

We're now in coffee growing country and all around are coffee estates growing coffee on the mountain slopes. The plants are grown in rows that give them a characteristic pattern from afar. 

The vegetation is changing and we ride through a lovely eucalyptus fragrance, quite a contrast from the start of our day.

After a refreshment break we continue the journey. We touch 2100m briefly before dropping slightly and then climbing again. These are lovely sweeping roads and it's a real pleasure to ride them. Jeff comments that he really loves this area and feels very much at home here. 

We make the final climb into Pennsylvania. I'm following Graham and see him looking firm at his front wheel, it does look strange and I think it's running flat. I toot him and we stop to check. It does indeed look flat and Edy confirms this when he pumps it from about 10psi to the specified 25psi. We only have another 30mins of riding so Edy does this rather than change the tube here. I follow Graham for those final 30 minutes and he's no slouch in the bends. The tyre holds up fine. 

When we get to Pensilvania, we park off the main square and walk across it to our hotel. The rooms are small, but we have an entertaining view of the square front the balcony at the end of the hall. It's a lively place. I go for a walk around town before dinner. 

Some of the streets are super steep.

During dinner which is a short walk from the hotel, we often hear the fast 'clippity clop' of horses. But this is not a regular trot, but a rapid hoof hitting the ground at speed while barely moving forward. It seems to be a local specialty as they parade up and down the street and square most of the evening, stopping occasionally to chat at the bar and alternate riders. There's even a cow girl, complete with Stetson hat. This display reminds us of cruising, only instead of hot hatches and boy racers it's hot hats and girl riders.

We finish the evening with an ice cream and prowl the streets menacingly looking for trouble...

The hotel has thin walls and doors, I can hear the TV from down the hall and the dogs barking on the street, even though we don't have a window in our room. Should be an interesting night.

About 120km today. I forgot to start my tracking so the picture below is determined from cell tower pings