Off we go after a trek to the parking area to get our bikes. Leaving the main square, we turn onto a road and ahead it seems to drop steeply into the clouds. We are at cloud level - this morning they rolled into the centre.
But the effect of seeing clouds in the distance between the buildings I thought was very dramatic. I didn't have the opportunity to take a picture unfortunately - but Steve did!
After filling up Christopher and I jump into the seats of the crazy train that the night before had been driving around the centre erratically.
The valley is steep and on the other side we see the houses cling to the sides. The tin roofs suggest it's not an affluent area.
This area seems to be more populated that those we've travelled in the last few days, but along our side of the valley the houses are not continuous, rather they appear in bursts spread out along it's length.
Landslides are the other thing there are plenty of here. In places the road suddenly narrows for no apparent reason. When you get to that spot you see that there's just a drop where that part of the road used to be; the mountain supporting the road has just given way.
The road hugs the side of the mountain in between the trees, and it curves invitingly to us bikers. That said, we all seem chilled today and are riding at an easy pace.
We can see it has rained as the road is wet where the sun hasn't burned off the moisture. And in those places, especially the corners, we have to take even more care.
The valley flattens and opens up, and we pass though a town that spreads itself over the valley floor.
We're now entering an area growing sugar cane which lines the sides of the road. In some places tall bamboo also grows and the tops lean over the road. This area seems weathier with nicely tended gardens.
In the built up areas there are often signs for schools, but until now we have seen hardly any children. But here we can see many kids playing in the school grounds as we pass by.
We have encountered speed bumps everywhere we've been so far, on the entry into towns, and especially close to schools. There are different types: lines of metal rumble bumps, strips of rubber a few cm high, and concrete steps several cm high with slopes on either side. I've developed my technique for the latter, braking gently at first then briefly very hard and releasing just before hitting the bump. You still slow down, but there's less of a jolt to you and the bike.
Lunch is at a very nice restaurant, but Steve, Graham and I make do with a coffee and water. It was a good breakfast but three full meals a day risks piling on the pounds. The coffee is good.
It's a short run to our stop for tonight and we can't check in before 4pm. So it's a relaxed ride at least until we get to the city of Manizales where the traffic density means you can't relax. But we pass the outskirts without getting lost and continue for about another 10km to Gallinazo and the Termales Tierra Viva, a luxury spa hotel. Passing a concrete plant on the way.
For whatever reason I'm not in the best of moods today, so when I find out that the room I'm sharing with Mark doesn't have a toilet seat and reception says it won't be fixed today, I lose my cool. But my pathetic threat is a poor review on Tripadvisor. I'm on my way out for a run anyway so while I'm running thoughts also go for a run though my little brain. Why don't they take a seat from an empty room? Let me speak to the manager. And, not only will you get a bad review from me, but also my whole group.
When I get back I go to reception, I ask if they can take a seat from an empty room. But apparently it's already been fixed. Jeff was with me when I lost it and saw how annoyed I was. But that's his job anyway: to make sure we, the customers, are happy. And is a toilet seat too much to ask for, especially in a luxury spa hotel? Or was I being difficult? Anyway it's sorted, so we can shit in comfort.
It's fixed, so my mood improves, especially after a dip in the hot thermal pools here. Here, we're in the side of an active volcano, Novado Luis or Blanco Hermoso.
Also an 8km run and 211m elevation change, not so enjoyable, but had to be done. Sadly that's the furthest I've run in nine months.
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