My speedo indicates that I've ridden 343km since we filled up and yet I've not even switched to the reserve tank capacity yet. That suggests these bikes have a tank range of well over 400km, perhaps even towards 500km. What they lack in smiles per miles, they make up for in miles per gallon. That said, today we fill up. Unlike Tajikistan, the pumps are more or less the same as what we had in Europe about 20 years ago. Maybe those are now here!
Then we leave Khaplu, off down the valley, back the way we came; but in reverse it doesn't seem familiar. We're following the Indus downstream so gradually dropping from 2500m. The road is cut into the side of the valley with rocky overhangs in places, but not as dramatic as those we saw carved high up into the valley wall in Northern India. The familiarity with what we saw in Tajikistan keeps coming back to me.
The valley widens and we're riding on the river flood plain where there are villages, orchards and fields. Our morning chai stop is an organic cafe and we try freshly pressed cherry juice with a chai chaser. The cafe is trying to be multiattraction as they have a flower garden, a 'Balti museum', sleeping accommodation and even a 'zoo'. But the latter is a few chickens, a small cow, ducks and partridges. The conditions didn't look too bad, I've seen some horrorible so called zoos, but I wouldn't call this one a zoo. There was a platform over the river's edge where we could have enjoyed our tea, but it was too hot for enjoyment - we were all seeking shade.
Back on the road and we're heading back to Skardu perhaps even on roads we've travelled. Gerard hits a bump particularly hard and decides he should wait for the support track so Imran can tighten the front end suspension. While we're waiting for him, we stop on the outskirts of Skardu, and I park under a closed shop front to catch some shade. There's a mini bike parked up outside a motorcycle workshop and an owner is polishing his pride and joy.
While we eat lunch, Steve goes out searching for new photos, but cuts his trip short when he realises he's already photographed our location, we're in Skardu again! 🤦🏽
An hour of tarmac and then we turn off onto an unmetalled road and start climbing up. Soon we hit a row of stationary cars, stuck as the narrow road isn't wide enough for two way traffic and the rocky track is slow progress in a car. But their side to side movements trying to find the easiest path makes them difficult to pass. Plus the road has a stream flowing down it, so we're having to contend with slippery rocks as well as overtaking wayward cars and avoiding the ones desperately filling the gaps on their way down. But the challenge is quite enjoyable and we arrive just past Sok at our riverside lodging buzzing.
