Monday, 24 June 2024

Pakistanistan, Day 2 to Shigar Fort

Easy start at 0930 following a leisurely breakfast. The first stop is too pick up an SCOM SIM as our otherwise excellent Airalo connection piggybacking on the local Jazz network doesn't work in the north of the country. SCOM is apparently run by the army so it may be security related or a revenue generation scheme. It's easy enough to get the SIM you just need to copies of your Pakistan visa... No, wait, now only one (even if you got two done at the shop across the road as asked). 3000 rupees for 30days and supposedly 80GB of data... 🤣 That's ten pounds, but we spent the whole day trying to get it to work, eventually succeeding by tweaking some settings. The connection seems quite slow, so I suspect using 80GB in one month is a physical impossibility! But at least we have a potential for a data connection when needed during the day, subject to cell coverage.

Out of town we take a road we travelled yesterday by the side of the airport, but don't stop this time. We continue and soon reach a long suspension bridge over the Indus river.
We then head East alongside the Shigar river which has split from the Indus. The tracks are a mix of gravel broken tarmac and sand. The terrain feels so familiar and I realise it's like our trip to Tajikistan two years ago where we followed the Kabul river for many km.
Like there, the road passes through small villages strewn along the valley between the steep sides and the river. The sand is the main challenge, many portions quite deep and fine, with dust thrown up by the bikes into the air, making visibility really difficult. As a result we try to keep our distance from each other, but it's not always that easy. Most of us got stuck at some point while those behind sail past, likely smiling on their helmets, or perhaps wide-eyed trying desperately not to stop or worse, fall off! 😱

We reach a crossing point for Shigar river which is a concrete bridge. Alongside is the old suspension bridge with rusty cables, but the deck seems intact even if at a slight angle. I contemplate a walk across it but think better of it. Just as we leave, we see two locals doing just that. 
From there it's a short ride into Shigar and our hotel which is inside the converted fort, but which retains its original features including an intricately panelled ceiling. We check in and have an excellent buffet lunch.
As we still have time in the afternoon we ride north on the road to K2, again through villages, and with some spectacular views up and down the valley. 

Charlie's bike gets (or is that "has" or "fetches" perhaps? "suffers" is probably the best fit) a puncture and while he waits for the backup jeep, we scarper without him! 🤣 We stop a few clicks further on and take a few photos.
our bike side stands sink into the warm tarmac.
We dash back to Charlie to find him all set, while our transit mechanic, Imran, is trying to help a local fix their bike. They can't seem to get it working, but the local doesn't give up, and eventually kicks it into life by fiddling with his carburettor. We return to Shigar and the call to prayer erupts in a surroundsound stage of competing muezzin.  

We finish the day with another excellent buffet.




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