We wake not to the sound of cockerels crowing, but instead to 1000 Chinese voices shouting in unison. Turns out there's a police station behind our hotel and this is part of their morning routine - I presume also their night-time routine as we heard them when we arrived last night.
It's a relatively easy start today as we're not on the bikes in the morning. We have to get our local riding permits from a traffic police station that is a short ride away by mini-bus/taxi. There we hang around outside for bit, then just inside the large open parade ground, before being ushered outside again. Expecting a long wait and copious paperwork we settle down and chat amongst ourselves; even in Tibet Brexit is a topic of discussion! But then suddenly we're off, permits obtained, and walk at a fast pace back to our hotel past small shops selling shoes, clothes, car parts, photocopier spares and rubber chickens... That's where I meet Arthur, squeaking and laughing like a happy soul. He and I get on like a house on fire and he loves my jokes. I snap him up immediately and my cockerel now sits pride of place on my handlebars, secured with Gerard's fluorescent yellow gaffer tape. Cock jokes abound, but dear readers, I know you're above that; Arthur however, has a good laugh.
One of the many quirky features of our little Zuumavs is the peg design. Rather than being spring loaded to return to a riding position they lock in the up or down position like pillion pegs. In fact that is what they are pillion pegs; I'm convinced this is a design flaw by someone who's never ridden a motorbike. Especially when kicking up the side stand it's very easy to knock the peg into the up position and once there it's very awkward to get it back down again without stopping. For the first day or so this was extremely annoying. But overnight the mechanic has made what I call the Goonan mod to the bikes, removing the notch that locks the pegs into up or down position. Now the peg is free to move up and down, so gravity returns it to the riding position. A simple and effective solution suggested by Aussie Chris Goonan and refined by the mechanic.
Our destination today is Latse and were staying at one of the two hotels in town, but we are not sure which one! Only '150km' today; Arthur has a good laugh.
On the way out of town I briefly glimpse a large white building on the side of a hill that looks like a small version of the Potala Palace along with a few other buildings that I'd like to have had a chance to look at. We ride through some ornate gate posts and into a shopping street with a paved road, not asphalt. It's almost as if it is pedestrianised but it's not as there a pedestrians dodging cars, and now bikes.
The first stop for fuel is very brief as they have no petrol, we're in luck at the second. On the road and light rain turns into heavy rain, but just after we've stopped to put the rain gear on again. The rain doesn't last long.
Lunch is a roadside restaurant and some of the diners outside look like really weathered locals in traditional clothing. Their features are like those seen in other parts of the Himalayas such as Himachal Pradesh and not at all Chinese as seen in the Han people (the largest Chinese group). Opposite the restaurant rubbish can be seen at the side of the road just like in Nepal and India, maybe it's an anomaly in an otherwise impressively clean country. I say hello in Tibetan ('tashi dele') to two women pulling a cement cart along the road. They are fascinated by the drinking tube from my hydration pack and laugh when they see Ducky's cousin in my backpack. Once again, a rock star poses with adoring fans, but no autographs....
We rev the bikes climbing the mountain road, engines screaming for mercy. In some cases they give up: new Steve's overheats to 120C and erupts its fluids in a cloud of steam as he goes, but he makes it to the top; while Matt's is smoking like a two stroke but without the adrenaline surge hitting the power band. His engine is dead so a bike swap is in order; he takes Chris' dead bike from yesterday, which is resurrected with a part from Matt's own bike. There are great views from the top and some gravel too and we take a moment to capture the magic before moving on. But not before (old) Steve has a crack at chasing a yak for a photo opportunity. He survives.
The road to the top was potholed in places and repairs were also being carried out in others. At several points some of he riders hit these potholes hard, but without wheel damage. At other places, unmarked, India-style diversions onto dirt track bypasses appeared from nowhere almost catching us out. It was nice to get onto some gravel, but such is the Zuumav's paucity of power that there was not even the slightest chance to get the rear wheel spinning with pleasure.
It occurred to me today that the Himalayas we've seen so far are not the same sharp-peaked, jagged mountains that we saw in Himachal Predesh back in 2010... ahhh, memories; the trip that formed our happy bunch. No, these mountains are more like those seen in Wales or the Lake District (not far from the centre of the universe that is Barnoldswick) only, at 4000m+, hiya.... boom boom! (Sorry, in joke with friends.) I hope we'll get to see some spectacular jagged peaks when we get into Everest country in a few days - really looking forward to that.
Before reaching Latse we stop for fuel, but I somehow cause a commotion by riding towards the pumps to get petrol. The female manager gets very upset with me and verily jostles the bike away. For what ever reason bikes are not usually allowed near the pumps and have to be filled using a petrol can in a separate area. Stupid if you ask me, but now she's refusing to refuel any of our bikes. A policeman inside the office is called and mediates, resulting in us being allowed to refuel there, but we must push the bikes to the pump, not ride them under engine power.
We find our hotel in the small town of Latse and settle in. 167km ridden today, with a few long stops and no issues, bar petrol pump moments.
Dinner is a tasty array of various meats and veg dishes, tofu and mushrooms. Satisfying, with an apple and banana chaser. We dine enjoying views of the surrounding mountains.
Another relaxed start tomorrow, which I like.
Sent from my trusty rusty BlackBerry
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