Day 6. Afghanistan, a Stone's Throw Away

Today we enter the famed Wakhan Corridor. Due south on the Pamir Highway until it curves to the east and the Corridor begins. It's a corridor because it's a narrow strip of Afghanistan between Tajikistan in the North and Pakistan in the south. We don't actually enter Afghanistan, but the river valley on the Tajik side is in the geographical Corridor. The Hindu Kush begins on the Afghan side, while the Tajik side is the Western Pamirs.

Once again we're following the Panj river separating relative civilisation from the dark ages, but in places the river narrows to a few tens of metres, literally a stones throw away. And I did... I launched a few into Afghan territory!

The price I paid for my diplomatic delinquency at this narrow but high flow point in the river, was that my bike wouldn't start - I had left the ignition on. 🤦‍♂️ There was not really enough of a slope to bump start it, but I tried pushing it higher up the road to get a longer run, but no, that didn't work. I decided to wait for Charlie to come back or the Hilux to catch up. It took a while, but Charlie came back and we managed to bump start it together. 

The terrain flattens in places and the river widens to several hundred metres with sand banks and multiple channels. Farmers taking advantage of the flat, and the fertile silt, have cultivated some of the land here. 

Later I see a nice view for a photograph and brake sharply to catch it. But I make a fatal rookie mistake and grab my front brake in loose gravel on a asphalt. The front tucks and over I go. Damn, I have broken the glass in my mirror. I'm really annoyed with myself. I wasn't even going that fast.  

I crack on, in a somewhat subdued mood, now feeling less inclined to photograph anything. I catch up with some of the others who have stopped for photos and overtake them. I carry on for what seems like an age without coming across anyone else; I'm tempted to speed up to catch them but decide not to. In the end, I decide to stop at Quha Fort and wait for the others to catch up and I'll ride with them. But it never happens. Unbeknown to me, when I overtook Cary (who is no doubt humming the Copacabana earworm planted earlier in the trip), I became the lead rider! Eventually Charlie turns up a little annoyed and I sheepishly follow him some 15km back to where the others have stopped for lunch. Now who's the bad boy?

After lunch, which included left over pizza from last night, we eventually all reach Quha Fort and explore a little. Leaving the Fort we soon enter the Wakhan Corridor. At some point further on we can see white mountains to the south of us, which are at least 20km away. This means we are looking across Afghanistan into Pakistan, which in places is only about 16km / 10 miles away. 

We pass some heavily loaded cyclists, who we meet later when we stop. They're from France and left Khorog five days ago. They've been wild camping and staying in homesteads, which we see plenty of signs for. With their heavily loaded bikes it must be real hard work, but they're enjoying it. 

We're not far from our hotel now, but we explore another ancient fort before reaching it, which involves a more technical steep climb on a twisty narrow gravel road, lovely.

Our hotel is basic, but warm and the food and views are good. We eat and then head for the local hit springs. These turn out to be awsome, very hot water flowing from rocks above into a constructed pool. It's steamy and the rocks are calcified, and it has a great atmosphere. After 15 minutes or so we can't take any more hear, so we walk back in the dark. The Milky Way stands out from the black sky it's so clear. Danny and Charlie capture some great photos.

Time to retire as we wake and leave early tomorrow. Another awesome day's riding. 

At the Copa, Copacabaaana!...