Consequently it's rather bland compared to many of the small towns we've been to. There's a fair amount of unimaginative Soviet era buildings, and who wants more of those? But there are also more modern buildings like the hotel we're staying in, no doubt constructed in ugly concrete and fill-in brick, but covered with a more appealing veneer. It works to make the place look a bit more modern. The town also has spectacular views!
We take a walk into town, looking for some shops to buy local goods, maybe a few gifts, but really there's not much that catches our eyes, apart from a few official looking buildings.
There's a pleasant park with well marked rules and regulations and a playground for children, but not in the best state of repair. But it does have a very dense and well kept mini forest of very tall poplar like trees.
Like most of Tajikistan there are many pictures of the president in display, but there's not the same level of fake idolation as I imagine there is in North Korea. Even so, I can't imagine such prominent displays of leaders anywhere in the western world, there would not be budget for the constant changes for instant - maybe that's why 'stan leaders are in place so long, the budget doesn't allow for constant change?
We stop for a coffee mid morning and Danny also has a very nice honey and nut cake; dry texture but very good.
The most modern building is an Ismaili centre near the park, built with funds from the Aga Khan, and you can wander around in a tour if so inclined. The park also has a local products shop, funded by the UK and the Aga Khan again. The Ismaili presence here, as there is in Dushanbe that has another centre, may be because Ishmailis would not be tolerated in Afghanistan, as the religious teachings conflict with the Taliban's beliefs, but not just that, they are viewed as apostate and therefore would face harsher consequences. Thus where they are tolerated, they would prefer to be. Tajikistan seems to be one such place in the region.
We find an interesting looking restaurant on the fifth floor, with great views over the town and into Afghanistan, that serves pizza and we scout it out for dinner.
Christopher is not with us on our mini excursion as he had a bad night of diarrhea and is recovering with Andre's magic medication. My Google translation of its contents seems to suggest it's just electrolytes, but it seems way more effective than Dioralyte as a few hours later Christopher feels much better and walks into town, he also joins us for pizza at dinner. Unlike Mark, who still seems a bit under the weather.
Minivans act as taxis and their are many running up and down the main road. These seat seven and with the hills the small engines must take a pounding, but the two we travel in today have each done over 200,000km, one 320,000; impressive. We shoehorn Steve and Danny into the back of one for the return journey, while Cary and I sit in the middle row and Charlie is up front. It's about 2.5 samani per passenger for the 1.7km ride, about 30c/25p. That's why the mileage on these vans must be so high, they have to run them until they die, to make a profit.
I take a short run before dinner, but even though we're only at 2100m, I find it hard work to run, feeling like I'm panting way more than usual. My route crosses a tributary of the Panj called the Ghant river. A bridge further up has a broken cable, so this narrow one has become a key artery to connect both sides of the town.
The return to the hotel is uphill and I make a conscious effort to gulp air which seems to help. My estimsted VO2 max figure improves after this effort; my first increase in many months. Surprising.
One thing I notice on the run is a relatively large number of old Mercedes cars, many of which bear Tajik number plates on German garage backing plates. There are many German sourced cars here, Opels and BMWs are also popular.
Tomorrow we ride again. Still chasing the Taliban, but fortunately the river keeps us well apart.
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