Nepal, Day 3 - Kathmandu to Nagarkot (30kms) - a warm up

Before we even leave the hotel, Matt has a problem with his bike. The gear lever and foot peg have come off. Loose bolt, nothing too drastic, but it takes a few minutes to fix. While we wait for the repair, we practice manoeuvring in the car park and I manage to lock the front wheel braking. These are definitely not the Enfields we've ridden before, the brakes work! Note to self, be very careful with the front brake on dusty roads.

Leaving the hotel into the stream of traffic outside would be a real culture shock for any unseasoned traveller; fortunately our core bunch of bikers are well seasoned, or is that well haggard? Well something, anyway. At first we're beeping like madmen as we adjust to the conditions, but soon it's all familiar and we get into a rhythm, short toot for pedestrians, slightly longer for other motorbikes and scooters, maybe a double toot for a wandering car and then frantic beep, beep, beep, beep for the bus or lorry that's just suddenly pulled across into our path. Doesn't really make any different in the latter case, but it makes you feel better about yourself; and at least you tried. The traffic is not really that much worse or chaotic than we've experienced in other developing countries, La Paz for example, or even the Brussels Inner Ring, it's just what it is. We adjust and ride accordingly, keeping our wits about us.

The roads are pretty decent tarmac and, after an hour or so battling through the traffic and fumes, we turn off towards the hills. But not before stopping for another quick repair: Jamie's bike has both spark plugs and the air filter clogged. All are changed and were on our way. He does his best to miss the turning too and sails straight on, overtaking a truck, while we're all stopped at the turning. He says that was his best overtaking manoeuvre of the day, timed perfectly and no doubt with an appropriate toot.

The roads become more twisty and with less traffic: the ultimate more/less combination for bike riders. We wind our way up the narrowing and broken tarmaced roads to around 2000m high and it's noticeably cooler, which is pleasant after the humid 27C of the city. About 10kn from our destination we stop for chai. Slightly sweet, strong and flavoured with cardamom it's an acquired taste. This one is not too sweet or strong, which is more palatable to the newbies.

Time to check our phones and Graham gets a reminder to prod his "dobber" and probably also chastisement for putting the knives in the dishwasher, but he keeps that one quiet. He's a man being tracked, courtesy of Spot and Globalstar, so he's on his best behaviour.

Turns out we've lost Alan. Not Alan, Alan, Alan, who's sitting next to me; new Alan, beardy Alan, Aussie Alan. He knows where we're going, and Chris his mate says don't worry, he'll turn up. He does later, just after we reach the hotel and comes in from the opposite direction; we scratch our heads. 

Before checking in we get the wifi code. First things first! We're at 1800m and it's a nice view over the valley, even if it is a bit misty.

A short, but involving and enjoyable, bit of riding, and no offs. In the days ahead, what elephants lay waiting to jump into our paths, I wonder?  Any excuse for an off.

Sent from my trusty rusty BlackBerry