Relaxing on the day off in Banlung

Initially the thought of a rest after just three days riding seemed a bit, well, soft. However there's no doubt some of us need it. After my four hands massage I realise it will do me no harm either. The stiff thumbs pressed hard into my muscles soon found aches I didn't realise were there. Not sure whether I'm in more pain now or before.

Last night I could still feel my legs hopping up and down on the bike like a mogul skier. I remember the same feeling when I learned to ski many years ago. Perhaps it has something to do with the muscles, nerves and brain fixing what it learned during the day?

We're staying at the Terre Rouge spa resort on the banks of the Kan Siang lake in Banlung, Ratanakiri District. We ate dinner here last night so you could say we ate red dust twice in one day.

There are a number of activity options on the menu for today, including visiting a volcanic lake, meeting a hill tribe, or renting an elephant. Apparently that's something you can do here, but for obvious reasons you're not allowed to drive it yourself as the brake is on the wrong side compared to the motorbikes.

I choose to visit the lake a few kms away, and rent a cycle from the hotel to exercise a different set of muscles. I expect an uphill climb but none occurs. The volcanic lake is not inside a lava cone as I've imagined, but set within rolling hills. You're allowed to swim, but it doesn't look very inviting. I cycle around the lake where on the far side the path becomes overgrown and I begin to worry about snakes. I don't see any, but there is a very loud, high-pitch sound like a alarm coming from the jungle. Which I assume is an insect of some kind. We heard the same noise in other parts of the jungle.

On the way back to town I do see a snake. One slithers across the road in front of me. About 1m long, greyish brown, with a red neck and bright green head; very pretty. I manage to snap two hasty photos before it disappears into the bush. It leaves behind a curvy trail in the red dust on the road. Not far away, children are playing; I've no idea if it is poisonous, but there are such snakes in the area. It's a sobering thought that in addition to the mines, this is yet another jungle hazard for kids growing up here. A boy pushing a bicycle uphill stops to say hello (people here love to practice the few English words they know, and they smile broadly when you reply), it's 4pm and he's on his way to English classes. It's refreshing to see the effort he's making to get an education, compared to many in western countries who couldn't care less.