It keeps getting harder

Today I almost hit my first chicken. I must admit it was quite amusing to see it doing that almost clichéd 'scattered chicken dance' and hear it squawking. It came from nowhere and disappeared just as quickly before I had time to swerve. I love chickens. Roosters too; just not that bugger whose crowing woke me at 3am the other day.

Hard core it was this morning. Deep sand, long grass, hidden ruts that went on and on and on. I've not seen the group looking so exhausted. I think everyone had an off at some point. Mine was this morning when the sand caught me out for the millionth time and tossed me into a bank. I trapped my boot between the bike and a tree root and it twisted my leg, which was painful. Tentative for the next hour or so, before a dose of paracetamol gave me my second wind. Then I started to have fun again. It seems to take me a couple of hours to warm up before I ride comfortably; until then I always feel a bit clumsy.


Each of our liquid stops ends with the 'fast group' zooming off after the leader. It becomes a little competitive with Rob and Nick chasing seemingly each other through the jungle. If the leader is one of the local guides, neither of them have any chance of catching him. The rest of us just watch as this drama unfolds everyday, while the rest of us just plod on whilst these two crash every so often (esp Rob) and then work their way back to the front.

After the hard core stuff, we stop for a snack and I try a banana wrapped in sticky rice. During the cooking the banana turns pink. It may look odd, but it was bloody tasty and came in a biodegradable wrapping of leaves.

Then it was on to the Preah Vihear temple a blast up the highway then a long uphill climb to the complex. This land is the subject of a border dispute between Cambodia and Thailand, who dropped cluster munitions in the area this year. Subsequently the surroundings are heavily populated with military personnel and road blocks. It's all very good mannered though as they quite happily wave back at you with a smile. From the top of the hill you can see into Thailand, which makes this quite a strategic vantage point. Apparently the UN has ruled in Cambodia's favour on ownership of the area, so this should see an end to hostility, but I doubt it.

Unfortunately I arrived at the temple too late to really appreciate it. It's a long set of temples going back up the hill and one can climb to see them. They are supposed to be quite a sight. My excursion ended at the first set of ruins, where the picture was taken. The full complex continues for another 500m or so. We had to leave as it was 110km tarmac section next and we had to arrive at our hotel before dark. Tarmac sections are boring but necessary to link the fun bits.

After three showers at the hotel, I still manage to leave red smudges on the clean white towels. We might have to pay for these as the hotel says they are impossible to clean. I know others will have the same problem.

The next two days are going to be tough they say; early night then. Except of course, Rob and Nick are out living it up. They'll have sore heads in the morning. Good!