Colombian Conquest Day 3 - Bucaramunga to Barichara

Meals are always an interesting time for our eclectic group. I don't reflect often enough on how lucky I am to part of this family. Today's conversations range from: Gerard's solo self sustained walk the length of New Zealand's North Island and his plans to do the South next year; to legacy of Christopher's various business interests; to US foreign policy; to swimming with sharks; to the control of feral hogs in the Australian bush. We are a diverse bunch, and this morning I'm conversation surfing, soaking it all in.

And then Steve ruins it by noticing the decorative 'festive tampons' as he calls them hanging from the wall behind us...

We head off into the city, me following Mark. It dawns on me that with his flowing mane of hair, Mark is the closest thing to a woman we have on this trip. It's not that women don't join us for some of our rides, it's just there are not many woman riders. Those that have joined us genuinely have a good time and are not at all intimidated by riding with a bunch of blokes. Riding has typically been a male dominated activity, but that's changing with the rise of YouTube personalities like Itchy Boots, Doodle On A Motorcycle, The Girl On A Bike, and Username Kate.

But back to our journey and Jeff doesn't seem to know the way. Eventually we make it to the open road, but get stuck behind long streams of lorries. 

We follow lorries for what seems like an age, but Jeff makes no attempt to overtake. We're all getting very impatient: Hugo moving out behind Jeff into the opposite lane as if to overtake, but not doing so; others weaving; but all gesturing or shaking their heads. Steve cracks first, he overtakes Jeff as well as the lorry in front. But Jeff makes no attempt to follow. Steve pulls over and rejoins the group: mission failed. We continue following Jeff stuck by behind the lorries.

Next it's my turn to crack: I race to the front of the group behind Jeff and then overtake Jeff and the lorry, but crucially I gesture to Jeff that the road ahead is clear and that it's ok to overtake. He follows. Yay! We do that a few more times and start to make progress through the traffic. It is all almost as if he needed that guidance. I gesture for him to overtake and he leads again. But he gets stuck in a rut again. By this time, Steve is fuming.

All this while we've been climbing gradually. But now we descend. We're entering a canyon and it's getting noticeable warmer. The road is twisty, but because the traffic is lighter we still make progress behind Jeff. We reach the river at the valley floor and Christopher and I pose for pictures on the bridge. 

Setting off again we can go a bit faster to catch the rest of the group. Edic has fun chasing me.

Eventually we reach the top of the valley almost 2000m up. 

There's a theme park here and a cable car from the valley below. 

We refuel with drinks and snacks as today there's no lunch stop. There's a nice police bike here, the colour almost makes me want to join the police. 

After some discussion with Jeff we agree a meeting point and will make our own way there with Edic in tow. Jeff seems relieved that the pressure for him to lead is off. We agree to meet in San Gil. Just before leaving we pose for a group photo.

Then we set off and there follows a spirited ride carving the road and overtaking lorries and slower bikes and cars with wild abandon. I follow Steve for a bit and he's 'on it'. This is Alpine level of twisty and great fun. Then we catch Ray and it's like we've lit the touch paper and he's off like a rocket. Steve and I follow and try to keep up, now he's on it too. Then a couple overtake me and then hang dangerously close behind Steve, at one point worryingly almost undertaking him on a bend Eventually they overtake and they follow Ray for a bit. Seemingly happy with him leading. They know the roads well and the old motto of never being faster than a local rings true.

We stop at the Monte Carlo restaurant in San Gil and are buzzing with the thrill of riding those canyons. But we're not stopping for lunch; a quick regroup, fluids and off, this time to meet at the hotel.

We are following GoogleMaps now and eventually we arrive in Barichara. But we almost get lost as GM doesn't have the roadworks and diversion outside our hotel.  And what's this, did someone take a tumble today?... 🤫

Only 115km today - a mix of frustration and exhilaration.

This place seems quite luxurious and Mark and I take a swim. Afterwards I walk into town and Mark goes for a run - oh how times change.

Barichara is one of the prettiest towns in Colombia and a popular tourist destination. It is full of character and charm. There are many churches, various monuments.

And curiously many old French cars are still driving around here. I also heard American voices during my walk, fortunately they were more interested in the churches than planning regime change.

Towards the top end of the town the views into the valley are also very beautiful. 

Dinner was luxurious: I've never had salmon in passion fruit salsa before. Alas, once again Steve had a disappointing dinner: his ribs turned into a steak and a grissley one at that.