Breakfast at the same place we had dinner last night, same freaky looking contents in jars watching us as we eat; carved ginger or real skulls?
Before we start riding, Ta calls for us to group round for one minute's silence, which we dutifully observe; when asked eventually he says it's for yesterday's roadkill! Of course he was joking, and we're all in on it, but oh how the killer was mocked. We still make fun of the Foxslayer (Patagonia trip), so the ribbing will continue for a while.
We leave on the main road but are soon winding our way up a hillside. The road starts out well enough, but as we progress, more and more debris appears; rocks and mud as if swept there by a stream of water. Then the road ahead is completely blocked by a landslide. We turn off onto a path that climbs over the obstacle and eventually rejoins what must have been the continuation of the road. Landslides are very common here so the local people are very used to finding alternative routes.
Clouds hang low in the valleys giving the place a not quite woken up feel - even though they've been up for hours, judging by the traffic heard before 6am this morning. When we left the hotel earlier, it was unpleasantly hot and humid, but now we're in the hills it's cooler, which is a relief. But only for a little while as we go back down to valley sweeping through more villages and swathes of waving kids.
Ta takes us across another suspension bridge and through more villages and eventually we end up back at the bridge only underneath it. He suggests we try another crossing. Go on Dom, show us the way... So the sacrificial lamb heads out and finds a path across, which turns out to be the deepest crossing we've done and well over axle level. Fortunately the bow wave from the front wheel, combined with waterproof boots, meant that my feet stayed dry, but with small rocks below the surface to suddenly throw you off balance it was a wonder that the whole of me didn't get a soaking. Only four of us try the crossing, the rest wimp out and go back over the bridge. I swear Ta is just waiting for one of us to fall in.
This area seems to specialise in veneer panels, as we see stacks of them stored by the roadside and some laid out to dry, giving the appearance that the roadside has had decking laid.
After lunch we head higher into the hills, possibly even mountains. More sweeping roads, which are enjoyable, and cooler still. We were told we'd be reaching the tallest mountain in Vietnam, but this doesn't seem high enough. Great views of all the terraced paddy fields though, which cost Ta 50000 dong. Then back into the valley for a refuel.
Back on the road we eventually wind our way up a road into the mountains and reach an altitude of 1200m where we stop to admire the views. The light is not ideal so my pictures are flat and as is often the case a picture doesn't do justice to the scenery. We climb higher on the same road and reach the pass, probably another 300m higher before dropping back down. It's definitely cool now and I feel vindicated wearing my jacket, while almost everyone else is in thin layers.
Back down, but still higher than the start of the day we turn off onto a small road leading from a town. The road gets smaller as it goes higher, passing though a small village. Chickens dart across the road from nowhere and Graham just misses them, but then, more shoot across in front of me, but not fast enough; I hit one. Why DID the chicken cross the road?
Climbing higher the road takes a sharp left and suddenly I come across several stalled riders stuck on a steep slippery incline. We battle for ages getting up that slope, several tip over including myself. Even Ta struggles. Some great photo ops though and a few laughs.
Finally reaching our hotel, it's dark again. We've only covered 216km, but once more, it's been a very full day. I'm zonked.
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