Patagonia, Day 3 - Osorno to Bariloche

Day 3 sees our first proper ride: about 250km eastward from Osorno. The roads are flat and long through wide open countryside and farmland, and because the tarmac is good quality, at times it's very fast. After about 80km we begin to climb slightly through a forest and the roads take on a different character with sweeping bends. Soon we hit the Chile border post and handover our entry chits from Santiago airport. Then were through. But wait, are we in Argentina yet? Not quite as it happens.

We roll on, continuing our upward trend and the green forest turns to grey. The majority of trees appear dead as if stripped bare by a catastrophic event and then dried by the sun over many years; is it acid rain? This scarred landscape continues for a few kilometres. As the road flattens out we seem to have reached the crest of the road and an open space emerges with a few welcome signs and monuments indicating that this is now Argentina. We pose for the inevitable photos, with Danny and Duff getting good value from their selfie sticks. The weather is lovely, with blue sky, few clouds and it's warm. Perhaps too warm, I'm sweltering when stationary.

Moving on and now downward along more fast, sweeping bends, and 40km after 'leaving' Chile, we get our second taste of South American border bureaucracy as we 'import' our expensive bikes into Argentina (the first taste was the extended entry procedure at Santiago airport). Getting out of Chile was relatively simple, almost as if they were glad to get rid of us, but getting into Argentina was again an extended affair, even so, it was with reasonable efficiency and a smile it has to be said. Argentinians definitely seem to be a friendly bunch. It takes an hour or so to clear the customs, but the chance for a comfort break and a stretch is welcome. Then we're free spirits again.

Lunch occurs not long after at a very pleasant restaurant overlooking yet another lake -this is the Lake District after all. We hide from the sun under parasols as the surprisingly fine cuisine is served. Lunch over and it's another 100km or so to today's destination San Carlos de Bariloche.

Although we have all signed out bikes individually, we swap between ourselves. Most are keen to try my 1200GS and most are impressed. I try Gerard's 800GS, which in fact turns out to be Mick's bike because Gerard already did a swap! The 800 impresses me, the suspension is compliant and the engine almost as responsive and powerful as the 1200, it's lighter on its feet and as it's almost the same engine I have at home, I feel very comfortable on it. Then I try Steve's niggly bike, a long in the tooth F650GS twin, to see what he's been complaining about. I'm slightly baffled as I have a real blast on this, and can't find anything to complain about. The engine is less powerful than the other two bikes for sure, but it's plenty strong enough and can easily keep up a good pace. With almost 70000 km on the clocks it is well used but still eager and smooth. The smaller wheels mean it is noticeably more nimble than the other two and maybe this is what Steve is observing? With me riding, it can be made to shimmy, but only if I force it to do so. For me the bike is fine, and I'm really surprised how much I enjoy riding this relatively lowly bike and how good it feels for its age - a bit like me perhaps!

Back on my own bike and we roll into town as if we were in the Alps. Bariloche could almost be Zermatt or Innsbruck with wooden balconied chalets and an abundance of chocolate, climbing and ski shops.

It's only 5pm, so Hugo, Graham and I decide to go out for a ride after dumping our bags at the hotel. We head for Llao Llao a famous area a few clicks away. The views over the lake are even better here and we stop to admire them and while we're at it, fulfil a public service taking pictures of couples with their own cameras; they're pleased. Traffic on the road there is a drag and whilst we can easily jump past cars, we decide not to, as with all the side roads, pedestrians and hotels, it was prudent not to - safety first. The police are out in force, so double reason to take it easy. Thus we follow the stream of cars, which Gerard particularly doesn't enjoy.

We meet for dinner at 9pm, which seems ridiculously late but that's the thing here, so we're going to have to get used to it. Then, after haggling about the petrol kitty, it's bed time. But first a short walk to help digestion and of course the endless thumb tapping on my BlackBerry keyboard to finish today's blog entry that normally starts at dinner - I'm as ever anti-social to the core.

An extra hour in bed tomorrow, as we leave at 9am for a slightly longer ride, there's no border crossing to contend with, so we have time in hand. Can't remember where we're going tomorrow, I just follow the herd. Mooooo!

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Sent from the dusty road using my rusty BlackBerry