The Killing Fields

After the horror of S-21 we ventured to the other horror that is collectively known as the Killing Fields. While the purpose of S-21 was to extract information from enemies of the Khmer Rouge regime, and death was not the primary intention, the Killing Fields were for one purpose only: death and disposal. Pure and simple.

Originally, those killed at S-21 were disposed of there. But soon space became limited and the situation in an urban environment risked spreading disease. The site at Choeung Ek a few kms from the city was then used as a destruction line. In all there about 20,000 mass graves dating from this period containing an estimated 1.3 million bodies. On top of that, widespread starvation resulting from the enforced ruralisation of the masses resulted in a total death toll of around 2-3 million. Out of a population of 8 million at that time it was a huge chunk of people
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Central to the site is a large stupa, which outwardly is just another temple, pretty though it is. It's only when you get closer do you realise it contains thousands of human skulls, some bearing the scars of their cold blooded murder. Little is mentioned about the method of death, but one cabinet shows tools used. Typically victims were beaten with a bamboo stick, metal rod or spade, then their throats would be cut using a simple farmers palm knife. The helpless, and certainly dying, individuals were then rolled into an open grave, which was then filled, whether or not they were still alive. This continued as hundreds and thousands were delivered from S-21 and other holding areas.

Probably the worst thing is the Killing Tree that was used to kill babies by bashing their heads against its trunk. Brutal, senseless, and utterly cruel. It was numbing knowing that these things had happened at this spot. The peace that resides there now as a tribute to the millions dead must have been in stark contrast to the screams it once heard. The guards would play loud music from speakers hung from the "magic tree", to drown these noises. Although this was officially sanctioned death, the authorities did not want it publicised.

Cambodia is a country and people that have been tragically wronged in recent history. I hope the rest of my journey here is on a more positive note. I've heard the people have a nature unlike anywhere else. Our guide, Zeeman, came here about 20years ago from Wales and fell in love with the place enough to make it his home. That says something.