Colombian Conquest Day 4 - Barichara to Soata

Up early for another telco with Europe. Then a short hard 'run' up the hills around the hotel.

More of a plod really with the dodgy hip, but at least I'm out. 2.4 slow km. Nice views though.

Across to breakfast while I cool down, but it takes so long to reach the table that I shower while waiting. 

Down to the bike, secured my dry bag to it, and I'm ready to go, today I'm swapping with Graham to see how the Honda 300cc behaves. While waiting for the off, I do a Duolingo lesson: 100%. Tres bien!

Just out of town, we stop at a viewpoint with a sharp drop below and wonderful view across the valley. Pictures, poses and a thump on the head for Hugo. 

We refuel just before we leave town. Then it's asphalt/tarmac to start, we ride about 40km on winding roads, Jeff seems more comfortable now. Later I ask him if he's feeling better, but he says no, he's just riding faster as that's what we want.

We fill up, yet again and stop for some refreshments and also buy some snacks for our next stop as Jeff says we're riding into a remote area with no shops. He also says we need to ride carefully as any we'll be a long way from rescue.

The aspalt turns into a gravel track - we now have to get used to the loose surface. I'm following Jeff, but he's not taking good lines through the terrain. He tends to get too close to the inside of a corner on the entry, which makes him tend to run wide on the exit. His leg extends out at times, motocross style. At least he seems comfortable doing that, and we're moving at a reasonable pace. This is what we came for.

The track is now more hard rock than gravel, and you have to be a bit more careful with the placement of the front wheel to avoid the protruding rock in places. This is not a straightforward gravel track, it's semi technical requiring some degree of skill to navigate safely without crawling along. We've done this all over the world, so riding like this is nothing new to us. Because we've ridden together in and off over 16 years we know and trust each other's abilities, which makes riding in a group easier and less stressful. 

We're riding through the valleys with rivers at the bottom and that means we often have to cross streams flowing into that water. Water crossings are always fun and always risk either getting wet or falling off, or both!  Inevitably there's a lot of splashing so your boots get soaked, but that's part of the game.

On the approach to one crossing there's a patch of soft gravel that catches Alan out. Over he goes, and it takes several bikers to lift the bike - and these are supposed to be small light bikes. No damage done and I think Alan is going for some kind of record - this is his third fall - the first two were when he was stationary, one this morning.

We reach a wider dried up river bed full of  stones and gravel. In the rainy season this would be a raging torrent, but today it's a manageable flow. A good picture opportunity, so I stop mid stream and manage to catch Steve in action.

We continue on the track and reach 2500m at one point. Because it's very bumpy the bikes are bounced all over the place. There's so much bumping in fact that my topbox flies open. I don't realise until Gerard gives me a toot twice, then I realise something is wrong. Disaster! My two packets of crisps have been lost. Graham's bag is still there fortunately. Must do the straps up tighter.

We arrive in Onzaga and park up outside a restaurant. It's a pleasant town with a lively square focussed on the main church. There's Colombian music playing and people sitting in the square chatting.

While the others eat, Steve and I wander around taking pictures. A large lorry heads towards the narrow side road where our bikes are parked, surely it can't fit there? But it's coming. And our bikes are in the way. The driver toots and we start manoeuvring them to safer locations. But there's a car too, and that's not moving. The lorry driver doesn't give up. He squeezes by with just mm to spare on each side, ably assisted by Edy giving directions.

After lunch more off-road. More of the same but with more mud. It gets slippy in places and I feel my front wheel sliding a little; for the back that's normal, and in fact I often provoke it to break traction, just for kicks.

I'm dicing with Ray and over take him, but soon after I lose it on the mud and get thrown off course. He overtakes me this time - touché! It's all good fun. 

At some point I notice rain drops on my visor. Just a few, but soon it becomes heavier. Ahead of me the riders start jumping off their bikes to don rain gear. Steve's behind me and we don't bother because ahead there are clearer skies, and in my experience I'll dry off pretty quickly once the rain stops. But on reflection I could not have put my rain gear on anyway because I didn't have it, Graham did! - apparently Graham waved for me to stop, but I didn't see him. In any case, I did him a favour not stopping, because soon after it does indeed stop raining.

It's getting noticeable cooler and we're now at altitude. We touch 3000m briefly. 

We climbed up and now we're descending into our destination. We see it from the hill overlooking the town, Soata. 

Entering the town the roads are steep. The road leading to the square is about as steep as it gets. This is at around 2000m.

In the square there's a church - obviously - and our hotel, plus a few shops and restaurants. We park. This time we're told to engage the steering lock. 140km today.

The square is a hive of activity. There's a group of young girls in team outfits on inline skates racing around the central area, while their coach encourages them. 

Gerard's check-in to his room goes awry as some drunks have desecrated his room and left an unflushed gift for him in the toilet - he nearly retches. They, it seems, are staying in the next room next door to him. He apprehensive about a quiet night.

Dinner, but no dessert, followed by a walk back to the hotel, via a stop for ice cream.

Colombian Conquest Day 3 - Bucaramunga to Barichara

Meals are always an interesting time for our eclectic group. I don't reflect often enough on how lucky I am to part of this family. Today's conversations range from: Gerard's solo self sustained walk the length of New Zealand's North Island and his plans to do the South next year; to legacy of Christopher's various business interests; to US foreign policy; to swimming with sharks; to the control of feral hogs in the Australian bush. We are a diverse bunch, and this morning I'm conversation surfing, soaking it all in.

And then Steve ruins it by noticing the decorative 'festive tampons' as he calls them hanging from the wall behind us...

We head off into the city, me following Mark. It dawns on me that with his flowing mane of hair, Mark is the closest thing to a woman we have on this trip. It's not that women don't join us for some of our rides, it's just there are not many woman riders. Those that have joined us genuinely have a good time and are not at all intimidated by riding with a bunch of blokes. Riding has typically been a male dominated activity, but that's changing with the rise of YouTube personalities like Itchy Boots, Doodle On A Motorcycle, The Girl On A Bike, and Username Kate.

But back to our journey and Jeff doesn't seem to know the way. Eventually we make it to the open road, but get stuck behind long streams of lorries. 

We follow lorries for what seems like an age, but Jeff makes no attempt to overtake. We're all getting very impatient: Hugo moving out behind Jeff into the opposite lane as if to overtake, but not doing so; others weaving; but all gesturing or shaking their heads. Steve cracks first, he overtakes Jeff as well as the lorry in front. But Jeff makes no attempt to follow. Steve pulls over and rejoins the group: mission failed. We continue following Jeff stuck by behind the lorries.

Next it's my turn to crack: I race to the front of the group behind Jeff and then overtake Jeff and the lorry, but crucially I gesture to Jeff that the road ahead is clear and that it's ok to overtake. He follows. Yay! We do that a few more times and start to make progress through the traffic. It is all almost as if he needed that guidance. I gesture for him to overtake and he leads again. But he gets stuck in a rut again. By this time, Steve is fuming.

All this while we've been climbing gradually. But now we descend. We're entering a canyon and it's getting noticeable warmer. The road is twisty, but because the traffic is lighter we still make progress behind Jeff. We reach the river at the valley floor and Christopher and I pose for pictures on the bridge. 

Setting off again we can go a bit faster to catch the rest of the group. Edic has fun chasing me.

Eventually we reach the top of the valley almost 2000m up. 

There's a theme park here and a cable car from the valley below. 

We refuel with drinks and snacks as today there's no lunch stop. There's a nice police bike here, the colour almost makes me want to join the police. 

After some discussion with Jeff we agree a meeting point and will make our own way there with Edic in tow. Jeff seems relieved that the pressure for him to lead is off. We agree to meet in San Gil. Just before leaving we pose for a group photo.

Then we set off and there follows a spirited ride carving the road and overtaking lorries and slower bikes and cars with wild abandon. I follow Steve for a bit and he's 'on it'. This is Alpine level of twisty and great fun. Then we catch Ray and it's like we've lit the touch paper and he's off like a rocket. Steve and I follow and try to keep up, now he's on it too. Then a couple overtake me and then hang dangerously close behind Steve, at one point worryingly almost undertaking him on a bend Eventually they overtake and they follow Ray for a bit. Seemingly happy with him leading. They know the roads well and the old motto of never being faster than a local rings true.

We stop at the Monte Carlo restaurant in San Gil and are buzzing with the thrill of riding those canyons. But we're not stopping for lunch; a quick regroup, fluids and off, this time to meet at the hotel.

We are following GoogleMaps now and eventually we arrive in Barichara. But we almost get lost as GM doesn't have the roadworks and diversion outside our hotel.  And what's this, did someone take a tumble today?... 🤫

Only 115km today - a mix of frustration and exhilaration.

This place seems quite luxurious and Mark and I take a swim. Afterwards I walk into town and Mark goes for a run - oh how times change.

Barichara is one of the prettiest towns in Colombia and a popular tourist destination. It is full of character and charm. There are many churches, various monuments.

And curiously many old French cars are still driving around here. I also heard American voices during my walk, fortunately they were more interested in the churches than planning regime change.

Towards the top end of the town the views into the valley are also very beautiful. 

Dinner was luxurious: I've never had salmon in passion fruit salsa before. Alas, once again Steve had a disappointing dinner: his ribs turned into a steak and a grissley one at that.

Colombian Conquest Day 2 - Cimitarra to Bucaramunga

A humid night, but the AC kept it in check in my room. Woke early for a 6am telco back to Europe - some things don't stop. Luckily I was in a single room for the night so didn't disturb anyone. 

Out for a 2k run with new Mark, we did a short 2.4k circuit of the town.

Before breakfast Steve and the others are out taking pictures, one with Steve stroking a kitten. He puts it down, and it wanders off: straight into the path of a passing car. But it misses the wheels and escapes, only to be then hit by the trailer behind the car. Steve and the others are mortified. The vultures fight over the carcass.

Major disruption at breakfast because there's no coffee! The owner says he only has hot chocolate, no coffee. Hugo pleads for coffee for the group, but there's dissent and so chocolate it is. Strangely, coffee turns up later, so everyone is happy. It's simple eggs, rice and a wedge of local cheese. But it was very tasty.

Before leaving we have a discussion about corner man drop off. A system we've used extensively on almost every trip to keep the group on the right route following the leader and keeping it moving. Jeff doesn't seem convinced. Rebels that we are we will just do it. And we did. And it worked very well.

The roads from Cimitarra are sweeping. We came along these yesterday afternoon, but I don't remember them being this much fun. Probably because I didn't have my stalker Ray on my tail then. Lots of twists and turns, with just a few areas where the tarmac has sunk a little.

We miss the signposted right turn off towards Bucaramanga, but we go a bit further and are able to join the same main road. Turning right we pass where we should have joined the road.

This is a relatively busy single carriageway with big trucks and many cars competing for space. There have been a few landslides along the road where the road narrows to one lane with siga/pare roadworkers at each end. We are quite lucky catching the green siga sign. But where we don't, we still manage to filter our way to the front of the waiting traffic queue at the red pare sign, either on the verge or in the middle of the road during gaps in the oncoming traffic. 

Our pace is dictated by the leader and when the road is clear we make good progress. But occasionally faster cars push to overtake. Cars, coaches, and lorries tailgate very closely behind you, especially if you leave a gap in front, which seems to invite the car to get even closer. When the oncoming traffic is too heavy, the car hovers menacingly behind you. Ironically if they overtake, we then cruise by when the car hits yet another queue.

In places tall bamboo lines the road and sometimes arches over the road making a bamboo tunnel. It's noticeably cooler in these mini tunnels.

We reach a large dam and wind our way around it, eventually reaching a lookout point on the other side of the lake it creates. 

When we stop, Steve makes Edic aware that he has a leak somewhere on his bike. Fluids are sprayed all over the lower half of the bike and his brand new boots and trousers.

We take pictures while we wait for Edic to attend to Steve's bike. And the conclusion is that Steve has apparently blown a fork seal. Or rather his bike has. It can still be ridden, but needs to be replaced, which can't be done until tomorrow. 

We push on to reach Bucaramunga and see it first from on high as we drop into its valley. The city is way larger than I expected, stretching into the distance and densely populated with high-rise blocks. It looks very modern. We couldn't stop to take pictures because it was a highway.

Reaching the city it's rush hour and we spend ages stuck in traffic, which is really frustrating. Normally bikes can filter, but here the gaps are not big enough and in any case Jeff probably wants to keep the group together. 

Eventually we reach the hotel and park in a multistorey carpark, winding our way up to the 5th floor. 

I'm sharing with Mark in a room on the 11th floor with a nice view of the city. We've been upgraded to hot showers, shower heads, and now Mark even has a lock on his door!

Dinner is a taxi ride away, Italian, and Steve is not impressed by the ribs he ordered, nor the delay in their arrival. We walk back to burn off the excess calories.

Steve's bike will be repaired in the morning and we need to wait for this to be fixed before leaving. It should take about an hour, but there's uncertainty about the actually time we can leave. We discuss options, including just pushing ahead, leaving Edic to fix Steve's bike (him catching up later), while Steve rides Edic's bike. Jeff advises against this as he says the canyon we're riding through tomorrow is very arid and if we have any problems, it's not a good place to be stuck. We'll decide in the morning. 

About 200 km today. I didn't track the first part so don't know for sure.