Patagonia, Chile Argentina, the route, Feb20 - 8Mar 2015

The Route on Google Maps, or see the picture below:

Next trip booked!

Biker Dom and his merry band of chums will next visit South America again, with the excellent Bolivia Motors team (renamed from Bolivia Bound). Starting at Osorno, Chile, on 20th February 2015 we'll zig-zag southward, in and out of Argentina and the Andes, ending up at Punta Arenas on 7th March. This will be the longest trip yet but Biker Dom is once again ready for the blogging challenge, so watch this space.... 

Mongolia, Day 10 - Ulaan Bataar to Brussels

So the 2014 tour is over and we're flying back to Europe, Asia or the Middle East.  Looking down at the plains from the plane, the sheer scale of Mongolia's size still cannot be comprehended; that the flight remains in Mongolian airspace for nearly two hours gives some idea. The criss-cross tracks cut into the terrain can be seen clearly from the air, as well as the parts of Mongolia we never got near: the mountains - for all the remoteness of the plains we traveled, the mountains look even more isolated.  Like Bolivia and India that we experienced before, there's plenty more to see - but whether we will go back is another matter...  

This trip has been especially difficult to blog because of the paucity of GSM coverage in Mongolia. As the country develops - and it is at a fast pace - this will change, but there are some places that may never see such mobile terrestrial networks; for these places, satellite communications will be essential. Already this is happening and we saw many gers fitted with solar panels and satellite dishes, no doubt for TV, but in future internet via satellite will become more practical and affordable.  For me, I used technology developed in the early 90's to make my connection: the Iridium satcom system (thanks JP for suggesting this and loaning me your wifi access point). It is an extremely slow system: 2.4kbps, compared to old fashioned 'lightning fast' 56kbps dial-up or modern multi-Mbps ASDL or cable, but for email it is perfectly practical, provided you are happy with text.  Next generation systems will no doubt increase the data rates, but cost for cost are unlikely to compete with mass market GSM type systems (FYI my Iridium phone cost $99/mth to rent, with $1.65/min call/data costs, details here). But for niche applications satellite will always have a place. 

Thanks to Mrs Biker Dom for posting the emails I sent her to the blog site - due to the way Iridium email is set up, I couldn't work out a way to do this directly. 

Once I get a chance, I'll add some pictures to the blog. And I'll also take the opportunity to correct typos, add a few more details and generally tidy the previous blog entries. But the essence will remain; I hope you enjoyed it. 

A few words about the trip organisers: Warthog Mountaineering.  Despite mountaineering in the name, they run trips on bikes, cycles, dog sleds, skis, through the jungle and of course up mountains.  Charlie Perring, their rep for our trip says Warthog is about to rebrand and will drop mountaineering from the name, but not the portfolio. Overall it's a very impressive company with many non-bike trips that have also piqued my interest.

I'll end this journey as I started: by bike from the airport back home. I hope the bike is still there! 

Until next time, Biker Dom over and out.....

Mongolia, Day 9 - Bayan Khangai to Ulaan Bataar

An early start for the final day's riding and Biker Dom is slow to rise after late night blogging. It's the last time I have to take the tent down, and I'm the last one to pack, as always.

Nice view from the tent despite the early start

Setting off we head north towards UB and once again the lead jeep changes course multiple times as we criss-cross the grassy plains. I've mentioned the grassy plains so often because that's the majority of the landscape that we rode across. But that's far from all Mongolia has to offer, as the country is so huge there is a wide variety of landscapes from mountains to desert, from grassy plains to rocky hillsides, we just scratched the surface, but what a surface!

Many routes to the same place across the grassy plains

The pace is fast and we sweep towards UB like the invading hoard. Mr Gantulga says we are a fast group, able to cover ground more quickly than those he's had before. Christian and I often lead the group following the jeep, and I always know when he's behind me as I can hear his booming Acrapovic exhaust. On a particularly fast stretch I notice he's not behind me, then suddenly the jeep stops and turns. I look back and see the group gathered. I race back to join them and find Christian on the ground; he's hit a jump, but instead of landing back wheel first, the front wheel digs in and flips him and the bike. Judges award "10" for the double somersault. He's laid out on the floor, the bike's a mess (yes, the trick KTM I rode a few days ago) and everyone is worried. But Christi is made of tough stuff and eventually he gets up. The doc's taking no chances, as his helmet hit the ground, and he spends the rest of the morning's journey in the jeep as a precaution. Charlie says: OK guys, no more pissing around!

Rejoining a tarmaced road we roll into UB proper for the first time. The sense of heavy industry is strong, and we can see tall chimneys bellowing smoke in the distance and getting closer we see they look like relics of the Soviet era (Mongolia used the be a Soviet satellite state) There's also lots of residential building going on to accommodate UB's growing population. Apparently a few years ago, Mongolia had a particularly harsh winter killing many livestock; this precipitated large scale migration into UB, and that trend is expected to continue.

Ulaan Bataar suburban skyline

The capital is like developing country capitals world over, mad with traffic and thick with pollution. But unlike India or Cambodia there are virtually no car horns to be heard. But that doesn't stop them from driving like loons and blocking junctions.

We arrive at bike base camp and have group hugs all round as the tour is over. We are herded into the back of a transit van and are transported to our hotel. It's a hot and very unpleasant ride as the transit only has six seats in the back; three of us have to stand and the A/ C is weak. At least the hotel is decent. And... Wi-fi!

Parking up the bikes at the end of the trip

A group of us take a taxi to the Black Market to look for souvenirs, but we're disappointed; it's really like a large department store selling everything from clothes to electricals, but no mementos.  Our waiting taxi driver is boxed-in so we can't leave, but a woman offers to take us back to the hotel for 5000 Tors (that's about two squids). We pile in and half expect her to offer to take us to a house of ill repute, but she doesn't and just chats away happily as we drive. Mongolians pride themselves on hospitality and it shows, both in the way the lift was offered and the excellent food we got from the back of the truck during the tour.

Then it's a meal out with Charlie and the team, where after speeches, we are all given T-shirts and congratulatory platters. A nice touch.

Riders and support team

Another early start tomorrow as we head back to Europe.

Mongolia, Day 8 - Tsagaan Hutul (possibly) - Bayan Khangai

The longest day today, 236km mostly offroad - but with a few short stretches of tarmac - usually a blend of dirt/gravel, sprinkled with sand and some renegade action on grass. Duff is riding with us, but his shoulder still aches. At some point Danny has his first off, but he's OK. It's our last full day of riding.  Gerard's bike still doesn't have a side stand and he has to carry a stick across his handlebars that he uses as as impromptu stand when wedged between the frame and fuel tank.  It works, but often the stick slips or is kicked accidentally and the bike ends up on the floor.

I often find myself the lead rider behind the jeep, although it's not the best place to be because the jeep's dust cloud obscures the track. So I either hang back, but then get repeatedly frustrated as I keep catching the cloud, or more usually Christian and I veer off to the side on the rough grass, out of cloud, but still behind the jeep. Today I notice Alan is lead rider for a bit, makes a change from Gerard, Christian, Hugo, Matt or myself. Although Chris is the most proficient of the group off road, he normally hangs back from the lead and plays around off-piste. 

Gerard follows the lead jeep's cloud, with his trusty stick

You really have to keep your wits about you off-piste as holes and ruts can appear suddenly; it really focuses your mind and the concentration is intense. The other things to watch for are discarded beer and vodka bottles, it's a real shame, these are everywhere beside the tracks.  But even on track you need to take care: after cresting a ridge today we were faced with a massive deep hole that a few of us only just managed to avoid. After I went by, I stopped and motioned to Charlie to keep to the side away from the chasm. It was shear luck none of us ended up in it.

Depending on the surface, you can ride on the seat or on the pegs. If it's really rough the pegs are best, but this is more tiring and I've found hard on my throttle thumb (blister to prove it). On the pegs is also a good way to ventilate your posterior occasionally in the heat, and you'll often see us go up on the pegs doing a wiggle to unstick our sweaty butts!  Lovely. 

Just before a drinks stop, we see a muddy patch on the road. I notice there's a clump of butterflies there, Steve, Danny and myself double back and we photograph the butterflies drinking. 

Butterflies at their local watering hole

We also pass a salt lake and there's a group of horses standing in the water. Makes a great picture with the mountains in the background. The landscape is changing as we head north. Although still,... well,... large, it's becoming more hilly and mountainous.  

Horses enjoying a midday paddle 

As we approach UB we find a rare taste of officialdom, there's a checkpoint we have to negotiate. On the other side we refuel in an area where there's a lot of earth moving going on. Not sure if it's mining, road building or some other activity. 

Diggers in action

In the petrol station there's a young lad who can't be more than 12, he's riding an off-road styled bike with knobbly tires and he seems to enjoy our interest in his machine. He follows us for a while as we leave the petrol station.  

Local biker boy on his 200cc Tiger - lucky fella

Our first attempt at a lunch stop turns out to be in mosquito alley. We move on and find something more bearable; hot, but with a cooling breeze.  Before lunch we sit and chat under a makeshift shade set up at the side of the truck - a welcome relief from the midday sun. Dare to doze off and despite hiding behind shades, you'll be snapped; many do and are recorded for posterity.  

Sleeping beauties at lunchtime

Some need more beauty sleep than others

Today we have a five course meal! Appetiser, starter, soup, main, desert. We ARE still on an adventure holiday.  Looking back to where we first stopped, I can see a ger that was near that spot. It gives a scale to the valley in which we stopped: it's massive.  

More riding, even more riding, nearly there, more riding, and then we pull off the main road and stop for the night; Bayankhangai is the nearest town, although it's not nearby. This is our last night of camping and we're all experts putting up our tents now.

Happy campers

After dinner I walk to the top of the hill over the campsite; it's a good walk. In the distance I see three of the support team racing to the next, higher, hill. The last rider gives up and abandons his bike at a difficult section; he walks up from there. I take the opportunity to dash from my vantage point (a km away) to where he left the bike. I liberate the bike and ride it to the top and, on the way, wave at the ex-rider who by now is on his way down. It turns out to be 'Mini-G', the son of Mr Gantulga; he gets picked up by one of the support team as I continue to the top, and head back down again as light fades. As I'm only in my trainers and baseball cap, I take care to keep the speed low. It's a difficult bumpy ride on the rock-strewn slopes but invigorating without all our usual safety gear.  

We find some wood and have a camp fire before bed. For some reason we have to wake super early tomorrow for our last half day of riding into UB. We'll have the afternoon to look around before a final night in the hotel and departure from Mongolia.     

Mongolia, Day 7 - Khar Khorin to Tsagaan Hutul (planned destination)

Duff is back with us today, and our first stop after leaving the ger holiday camp (think Mongolian caravan park) is the temple complex at Khar Khorin. Built in the late 16th century and added to in stages since then by various rulers and spiritual leaders, it covers about half a square km. Small by Anghor Wat standards, but impressive enough to be declared a World Heritage site in 2004. We spend an hour or so as a tour party before filtering off and doing our own exploring and then perusing the parade of tourist shops. Steve has his photo taken dressed as a Mongol warrior and Danny poses with a large eagle armed with his trademark smile.
 

The main temples

Our temple tour guide 

example of the temple exhibits

Scary Shri Devi, actually a protector

Another temple on the complex

My body is also a temple

The eagle bows to Danny's SmileTM

Then it's off, and after refueling, strangely, we stop again about 10 minutes later for a refreshment break. Or at least that's Mr G's plan. Gerard takes exception to stopping and remonstrates with Mr G that there's no reason to stop so soon after leaving the temple - he's right of course, but the rest of us were too polite to say so. The support team, suitable chastened, start packing the drinks kit back into the jeep. Poor confused Christian has just dunked his tea bag and has to abandon his hot beverage prematurely. We're off again and don't stop until lunch. 

There follows a longish intense thrash across the rolling grassy hills, seemingly randomly as the leader corrects the route as we go. We do a photo stop with us riding up a hill towards the camera and afterwards I get a chance to try Christian's Dakar styled bike with trick suspension (closed cartridge forks) and peppy engine. Like Gerard's bike, which I tried earlier in the trip, it flatters the rider with its stable ride, forgiving suspension setup and responsive throttle. I'm once again a hooligan carving my way through the open terrain, straining at the virtual leash constraining me to keep pace behind the lead jeep.  At lunch (once Mr G clears this with Gerard) we're told to take extra care until the end of the tour and my hooligan antics on Christian's bike mean I'm singled out by name. I'm back on my own bike after lunch so that should be possible... In theory.

Biker Dom and his Honda XR650, ready to burn rubber

This is what happens to the tyre tread when you let a hooligan ride a trail bike

Unlike our previous trips, this tour is virtually self contained, with everything we need in the truck. That's means no lunch stops at roadside cafes and little chance for interaction with the locals. That's probably a necessity as there aren't really any suitable places on route anyway.  The upside is that the organisers have good control of what we eat, and apart from Matt's isolated problem, none of us have suffered significantly with upset stomachs.  When we camp, locals often stop by to check us out and we've had some good photo opportunities on these occasions.

Curious locals

It's our hottest day so far, the jackets are off and we're wearing just our armour on top. We head for our next way-point by a lake. Just as we crest a hill we get one of the best trip vistas so far: the hill drops below us, the lake in the distance, mountains beyond and all topped with a wispy blue sky. We stop for more photos.

a cold dip awaits in the distance

We reach the lake and there's no one around, so we strip down to our underwear and jump into the cold water; not quite skinny dipping, but close.  Our local guides follow our lead and they're soon splashing around in the water too (Mr Gantulga's son, who we call "Mini-G", is a champion Mongolian swimmer and impresses with his butterfly stroke). It was mighty refreshing after a hot ride and standing by the bikes in our undies, the strong breeze soon dries us. We have the option to camp here, but we decide to push on as we're behind in our itinerary.  

The dirt and gravel roads get compacted as cars and lorries traverse them and just like the dirt roads we met in Bolivia they acquire not only ruts running along them, but a corrugation running across them. There they were bike killers, inducing damaging vibrations on the bike that would literally shake them to pieces.  Here they do much the same, so we try to avoid them if we can. They shake not only the bikes but the riders and their guts; uncomfortable especially after meals. Standing on the pegs helps a lot.

Although Tsagaan Hutul was the planned destination in the itinerary, because of the delayed temple stop (meant to be yesterday) we're nowhere near reaching it tonight, so we stop to camp on flat ground a km or so from the tarmac road we are on at the moment.  

Before dinner we relax with drinks and chat among ourselves with majestic views all around us. I sit and listen to about four parallel conversations, dipping into each occasionally. This is always a nice way to end a hard day, talking about the day's riding, trips we've done, other trips planned and generally chilling. After dinner, the support team roll out a local speciality, horse milk beer; the lads are not too impressed, but Mr G and Mini G, knock it back late into the evening (Mini G looked very fragile in the morning!)

We're still behind in the itinerary, so we have a long day ahead, but that won't phase us, we're all well seasoned riders now.      

Mongolia, Day 6 - Arvaikheer to Khar Khorin

A very comfortable night (bar Android annoyance) and no tent to strike. On the road, we're back in Microsoft Windows XP (TM) desktop terrain, low rolling green hills and blue sky. Or is it Teletubbies land; uh-oh where's Tinky-Winky? 

Matt is feeling much better today and flying, Duff is sitting out the ride temporarily.  At our first stop after refuelling in Arvaikheer (not such a big town but it has tarmac roads), Charlie the UK tour leader finds a broken crutch; Mark makes good use of this for the rest of the day (the team say that old possessions are left on hill tops to give thanks for new ones - this means such sites often seem to be rubbish dumps). We travel deeper into the hills and the slopes become less green, and bare, as if someone hasn't watered them in a while; the tracks are still loose dirt and gravel. Some of the slopes do have trees on though, grouped in a thin forest rather like my hair these days.  These are our first trees since UB. 

A rare forest

few road signs

The lunch stop is next to the only fence we've seen so far.  Mongolia has very few fences; land is by default owned by the government, but citizens can apply to lease parts of it to raise crops or build a house.  But the majority of the land is treated as open pasture, free for animals to graze or to build your ger temporarily.  

A few more minor offs, Mick and Alan's camera have moments. Nothing serious.  Sudden cracks in the dirt road and dastardly ditches before reaching the lunch stop.  Today it's dim-sum: the chefs really deserve a medal for their outstanding creativity in the back of a truck that serves as a kitchen, larder, baggage store and garage!  

today's anonymous bruise

A short ride today, about 140km, with a final blast on tarmac, and we arrive at our ger camp. Two to a ger and I'm sharing with Duff. One nice thing about these trips is I get to talk to interesting people about a wide range of topics beyond work and everyday life. I've said it before, these guys are all successful in what they do and it's enjoyable to talk to them; everyone has a story, even me. Stories are good, they make us who we are and add spice to lives.  At dinner we have yak ice cream. That's another story, a rich one. 

Duff's lairy trousers make an appearance in the evening.  Steve matches him.  They make a nice pair.

What a pair of pairs!

Some of the guys take the opportunity to ride horses that the camp keeps. Half an hour being led around a field by a man in a pork pie hat didn't appeal to me, even if it is a typically Mongolian activity - horse riding that is. 

Tomorrow it is stupas. 108 old stupas. And then transiting Khar Khorin, the old Mongolian capital and a point on the old Silk Road (part of the Karakorum highway!)     

Mongolia, Day 5 - Baruun Bayan to Arvaikheer and playing in the dunes

Last night was a one-bagger and generally a good sleep was had after staying up late to blog. Last ablutions before bed and a chance to admire that wonderful clear Mongolian sky - do they pay more to get such a generous helping of stars I wonder?  Mongolia has over 250 sunny days per year and is known as the Land of Blue Sky - this extends to night time.

Update on Mark: comfortable but after a day in the jeep, the clinic in Arvaikheer confirmed that he has broken three bones in his right hand and strained a ligament or tendon in his knee. Lucky (?) for him that he's left-handed. His trip is effectively over and he's making plans to return to the UK (further update: Mark travelled with us for the remainder of the tour). 

Matt has caught some kind of bug and is doubled up in pain.  Unlikely to be the excellent food as the rest of us are fine. By the way, today we had caviar! Ok, not beluga; but caviar! On an adventure bike tour!  This trip has reset our food reference point. 

Duff had an off too, after carefully hitting a booby trapped rock left in Mick's wake. Duff says it was a case of target fixation: keep looking at the thing you want to avoid and you're guaranteed to hit it!

Before lunch we ride to the edge of the Gobi sand dunes. The sandy approach trail is lined with tall grass that hits you in the face as you wind your way along it; feels rather like riding through a dried up marsh. 

The 'marsh' ends with a flat sandy area with thin grass trying hard to grow, and then suddenly the dunes start; they just start, like an invisible barrier holds them back, it's weird.  King Mark is carried in his chair from the car to the sand, we remove our hydration packs and jackets, and after posing for a few photos, it's play time! 

King Mark is wheeled out to survey his subjects at play

Biker Dom ready for the Gobi Dakar rally

Sand, our old adversary. We hate it. Mostly. But here it's all sand, fine, yielding, no traction, impossible to ride you'd think. But no. With the right technique it is possible to do the impossible. Third gear, lean back, straighten the arms says the tour boss Mr Gantulga (ex pro racer and class winner of the Paris-Beijing rally) and so we try. And some of us do quite well. Chris seems right at home steaming up and down dune walls; myself, Gerard , Christian and Hugo are also not too shabby. And others also benefit from the advice and plot a steady course through the sand. A few, recognising their limitations, wisely sit and watch the antics. 

Biker Dom and Ducky blaze a trail through the Gobi

I carve a dramatic arc up, along and down a dune slope, with the emphasis on "down" as the bike digs its front wheel in and ejects me in disgust. As usual, I put on a good show for the crowd. Later, without an audience, I crest a ridge and see a steep drop. In panic my braked front wheel digs in again, but this time the bike administers corporal punishment as it topples and whacks my thigh. Ouch, that hurt!  Pride bruised and now the damn bike won't start. I waste at least ten minutes trying to kick start a 650cc single-cylinder engine (kick starters are the invention of a sadist) and in that time the distant sound of barking single cylinder engines dies down. Play time is over and I'm stranded. Finally the bugger comes to life and I limp back to base. Despite the wasted time it was fun, my power slides have come on a treat and falling off in sand doesn't count.

Biker Dom and Gobi Ducky

It occurred to me today that since leaving Ulaan Bataar, we haven't been on a single tarmac road; nor have we crossed or seen one. Even through what you could call small towns, there were only dirt/gravel tracks. And very few cars and no bridges yet, hence why some of us got wet yesterday!  I'm sure there are roads and bridges in Mongolia, we have just managed to avoid them.  Seemingly every house has a horse and every garden/yard has a ger (what Mongolians call a yurt); even then one horse towns are rare, and towns even less common.

After heading away from the dunes the landscape opens up and becomes low craggy hills and wide plains again; it seems familiar because it is, we rode this way to get to the dunes from our campsite.  Further on, the plains become even wider and the single track we're following becomes a multi-lane Mongolian super highway, albeit empty.  We stop for a very windy lunch and cower behind the truck to enjoy our caviar. 

multi-lane Mongolian super-highway

We arrive in Arvaikheer and find our hotel. Solid walls, hot water, toilets, showers,.... and eventually Wifi! Joy of joys, we're connected again. Oh my, how we are all under the digital thumb. But I guess, you wouldn't be reading this were it not for that fact. Tonight will be a no bagger!

Mongolia, Day 5 (interim post) - Baruun Bayan to Arvaikheer

Annoyed with Android. Had typed out tonight's blog entry and one wrong tap and I lost the lot without warning! I miss my reliable BlackBerry updates.

So in brief: Mark going home with three broken hand bones. Matt has a stomach problem. And Duff has a shoulder injury after a fall.

Had a blast in the Gobi sand dunes today, but it was severely hampered by a bike with no electric start. Kick starting a 650cc single in the dunes is not fun. Note to self, always make sure your bike has an electric starter!

Severely disappointed with Android tonight!

Mongolia, Day 4 - Bayangol to Baruun Bayan, and I fell off

...or rather I fell in. Woke today feeling decidedly lizard like and sluggish. It wasn't until after breakfast that life returned to me. The night itself was more comfortable and not too cold; two sleeping bags were sufficient. 

After a short ride that may have included a fuel stop we encountered our first challenge of the day, a river. The established ford was running high because of the recent rains, and after a reconnaissance crossing by the support jeep, it was decided that our bikes would be loaded into a pickup truck and ferried across. The jeep sank to well below wheel depth and with the strong river current it meant crossing would be almost impossible. We watched a few locals cross on foot by a slightly different route and they managed without too much trouble. We were slightly disappointed. 

Then another of the support team came back and said there was another crossing place, so we moved a few kms to that spot and again the jeep recce'd the route. This time one of the support team took a bike ready to cross. With some difficulty he managed. When asked if any of us would do it, Biker Dom took one pace forward. So armed with the suggested route and a cheery wave I set off and did quite well until the current became rather strong and, well, I fell in. Although I did it with style and managed to fire off yet another wave to my band of onlookers. The bike was completely submerged and with help I hauled it from the raging torrent ;-) . 

Biker Dom takes a dive and Ducky enjoyed every moment

Christian tried it next and almost made it but for hitting a steep ledge at the bank side. In he went. Then Gerard, and he too almost made it clear across but for the strong current at the last minute; he didn't fall in, but couldn't quite reach the bank without my helping hand to pull the bike for the last few metres. Then Chris tried and succeeded! Followed by Matt, punching the sky in celebration, and then Alan. Alan looked as if he was heading for a dunking, so the support team yelled at him to stop! stop! But he kept the power applied, sailed past them, and somehow managed to power the bike up the bank (see video below)

The rest of us either stalled in river or wisely choose to be pushed across. At the other side began the long task of drying off, us and the bikes. Christian's and mine took the most effort as the plugs had to be removed, the bike upended to drain the exhaust, and then the water squirted out with the kick starter. They fired up eventually after requiring an extended bump start towed behind a jeep. With that we set off, but at every subsequent snack stop I'd whip off my boots and trousers to try and dry off. In the breeze buzzing along, I was dry by mid afternoon. 

At some point in the afternoon we entered the Gobi desert, the exact boundary is not well defined and changes annually as the winds shifts it. The Gobi here is not the archetypal desert of sand and instead consists of a rocky landscape with sparse dry grass trying to grow on the flat plains in between.  The trails are sandy strips worn through that grassy terrain and as is the case everywhere we've been, there are multiple trails all going the same way. 

Gerard enjoys a welcome rest

We had an exhilarating ride along those desert tracks in the afternoon, and made our own paths sometimes but always running parallel with the lead jeep. At our penultimate rest stop we had to decide whether to camp sooner or later; we chose later. That meant a two hour plus ride to the dunes to camp for the night; we were ready for that. Unfortunately we didn't reach our destination this evening. 

Whilst following the jeep, Mark was momentarily unsighted by its dusty cloud as it went over an edge. Too late to see and stop, awaiting Mark on the other side was our old enemy: deep sand. Not expecting that, his front wheel dug in, catapulting him over the bars whilst at the same time whacking his knee. Luckily he was not seriously hurt, but he'll not be riding for a few days as his knuckles and knee are rather swollen. He'll be in the jeep for a few days at least, which is a shame, as everyone has been commenting on how well Mark's been riding on this trip, obviously benefiting from some off-road training in Spain. A lesson to us all not to follow the jeep too closely no matter how slowly it's going.

Therefore we camped prematurely and tomorrow will have to make up time. We will get an opportunity to ride in the real sandy dunes that rise to almost 800m in places. 

The campsite is windy and the wind has not let up all evening. Early start tomorrow so we're all in bed by 22:30. Night night sleep tight, don't let the sand tampans bite (Steve King!)

Mongolia, Day 3 - Buren to Bayangol

Two sleeping bags were not enough; apparently ice was seen on the tents in the morning. I'm sure my son Yusef would not have minded the cold at all, but I had a very uncomfortable night; I'm sure he'd be pleased about that. The early morning sun was a welcome relief as even its first rays had a warming effect in my tent, taking the chill off the air at 5 am. Up at 07:30 and the tents we're mostly down before the much needed breakfast and hot coffee.

Before we set off for the day, I mount Ducky to his favourite perch on my Honda XR650's front mudguard, from there he gets a commanding view of the road. Once I get a chance to post pictures (the Iridium data link is far too slow to make that practical at the moment) you'll notice Ducky has quite the suntan. He's been away since the Bolivia trip and I think he's been doing a spot of sunbathing somewhere.  Once he's seated, it's quack and roll time.

Duck, on a roll

After refuelling, Gerard offers to let me try his KTM500EXC. Although it's a smaller displacement, the engine has a higher state of tune so it feels much perkier than my Honda. I'm soon making a nuisance of myself power sliding the back wheel on and off the dirt track. The suspension, engine characteristics and throttle allow a fine degree of control that flatters any rider, I was sold on the KTM almost from the first twist of the throttle and I really enjoyed those few kms. Getting back on the Honda seems an anti-climax, but I'll ride any bike and enjoy it.  Riding the KTM has actually improved my bike control I think, even if not my self control. Later on, I manage to get my front wheel stuck in a rut and have to be lifted out. 

Biker Dom, stopped in someone else's tracks

That was on a slow patch and in fact could have been avoided if I was going a bit faster. As I've said previously in my blog, going too slow can be just as dangerous as going too fast, the trick is to find the right balance; as I've not fallen off yet,the balance must be about right. Christian has a similar KTM to Gerard, but it seems even more of a beast with a proper Dakar suspension setup. I'll try that on another day whilst still trying to preserve the balance of course.

We stop for lunch and once again, we're treated to a fine lunch and can you believe it, today we have sushi! My fellow riders and I wish to assure you that we are really on an adventure holiday, honest! The food really has been first class and not at all what we we're use to on poor bike trips. Mongolian hospitality is excellent and our support team is very eager to please. Whilst the lunch was being prepared a few riders head off for the 'dump run'. This is a ritual performed morning, noon and night (but not necessarily by the same people) where we jump on a bike and head off to find a secluded spot to 'make a deposit'. Danny says bike pegs make very good toilet roll holders. The electric start bikes are the preferred mount.

Typical 'dump run' in progress - not an effective location in this case

The trails are definitely getting more sandy as we head south and tomorrow afternoon we get to ride for the first time the Gobi. I'm looking forward to it, especially after the half day dune bashing in Dubai, which really improved my sand skills.

We follow a ominous looking dark sky to our camp site and struggle to setup camp in the strong wind. We eat yet another excellent camp meal and night falls; fortunately the dark sky doesn't trouble us. The temperature drops pretty quickly when the sun goes down and we reach for our fleeces. Before bed (and blog writing) I walk a few times to the top of a nearby hill to warm up before getting into my sleeping bags. At the top I get a good view of the many dump runs in progress hundreds of metres apart, and it's quite amusing to see people scattered in all directions for this essential activity. Tonight doesn't feel as cold as last night so hopefully I'll sleep better. 

small formation of mammatus clouds, ready to burst

As we all say good night, the support team are busy fixing Mark's bike which seems to have a mysterious problem. What trip would be complete without at least one major rebuild of Mark's bike? This time it's not clutch or starter motor; what's he broken this time? ;-)

Still no sign of Duff's lairy trousers, but Steve as always substitutes for that role nicely.

Mongolia, Day 2 - Ulaan Bataar to Buren

The day started cold and wet as is typical at this time of year on Mongolia, but we were soon warmed up as we tried to kick start our bikes; mostly unsuccessfully and for the remainder the day support team helpfully did it for us.  I'm sure we'll become competent in time, but at the moment it's easier to stop on a slope and do a rolling bump start.

Regular stops to gather the troops and recuperate

The rain had made parts of the muddy trails feel like ice especially given that my rear tyre was low on tread, but once the day progressed the trails dried surprisingly quickly and became dusty in places. The tour is unlike any we've done so far in so much as the leader is in a jeep. This is a little frustrating at times as bikes can often zoom over terrain that even jeeps have to slow for, but at other times it's not so bad, and even helpful as when the jeep slows for a dip we know to take it a bit easier. Sometimes we let the leader get ahead and then speed up to catch him. Other times we ride parallel to the main track on the grass where the terrain is more challenging and keeping to the pace of the lead vehicle is not such a chore. It's actually safer to ride at your own faster pace as you get into a rhythm and the wheels have more momentum to carry you through ruts. 

Lunch was quite surreal as we stopped on the grassy plane and waited for the support truck to catch up; this carries our luggage but also a well equipped kitchen. After some time, perhaps too much, we were treated to a three course lunch at tables and chairs, and with proper cutlery and serviettes. Too much for us as we're used to simple snacks or noodles for lunch. Tomorrow we've asked for a simpler, quicker lunch.

Typical lunch stop

The landscape is unending low rolling hills with sharper peaks in the distance but nothing on the scale of the Andes or the mighty Himalayas. The roads we've travelled are just dirt tracks and I think we've only passed another vehicle twice the entire day; Mongolia is one of the most sparsely populated countries on earth and it's not hard believe.

We turn off the track and pitch our tents in flats areas on the grassy slope. We're treated again to a three course meal, some witty banter, then it's time for bed. The sky is crystal clear and I can see many more stars than are visible from the light polluted skies seen from most of Europe. It's seriously cold and I need a double skin of sleeping bags to keep me warm and I still have my clothes on. And a woolly hat. 

Camp for tonight

We covered 160 km today and it's more of the same tomorrow, but more, 190 km. As we head south we will eventually reach the Gobi where the terrain is very different. 

Mongolia, Day 1 - Collect the bikes at Ulaan Bataar and teething problems

I'm not convinced my posts to the blog are being received, so bear with me while I sort them out. For this post, I'm using a PC in the office of the hotel we're staying at so I'll make this entry brief.

We arrrived at 10am to a wet rainy Ulaan Bataar.  To the 'hotel', which is a "ger" (Mongolian word for a yurt), met the support team, had a large lunch, then onto the bikes; a mix of 650cc, 400cc and 250cc Hondas and 500cc and 540cc KTMs.  I'm assigned a 540cc KTM, but swap with Danny's 650cc Honda, as he prefers the higher bars on the KTM. The Honda's bars are a little on the low side for me too, but I'll manage. 

left to right, Christian, Matt and Chris compare their steads in the camp car park 

Charlie collects his KTM from 'Paradise'

A quick test ride in the dirt and potholed roads and we're set for tomorrow when we ride for real. We're given a provisional itinerary, which could change depending on the weather conditions (eg river levels). 

The tour itinerary 

We'll be staying in tents for the next two days, so showers and electricity will be a luxury. There's another hotel a few days away, when the blog should resume if there's wifi. Meanwhile my updates via sat to Facebook are working, so get the latest news from there if you have an account.

Before dinner I climb the hill above the ger camp and meet a group of Mongolian kids visiting for the day. Communication is limited, as is my Mongolian and their English - we stop at "Sainow", hello.  I take a photo of the group.

The ger camp on the right, our home for our first night

Mongolian kids on a day trip

Anyway, bye for now.

Biker Dom out.

PS thanks the the hotel staff for letting me borrow their office PC for the original posting :-)

Mongolia, Day 1 - Bishkek at 4am!

Awake. The adventure has begun and we haven't even arrived yet

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